V. 


THE  SUBURBAN 
GARDEN  GUIDE 


Compiled  by 


PARKER  THAYER  BARNES 


THE  SUBURBAN  PRESS,  Publishers 

NEW  YORK  HARRISBURG,  PA.  CHICAGO 


All  rights  reserved 


Copyright,  19  ii 
By  THE  SUBURBAN  PRESS 


JEount  Pleatfant  Pr e$s 

J.  Horace  McFarland  Company 
Harrisburg,  Penna. 


6 3 4.  ] 

3 ^(dS 

CONTENTS 

PAGE 

Planting  Time-Tables  for  Vegetables  . . 5-6 

The  Best  Vegetables  for  the  Home  Garden  . 7—16 

(Varieties  to  Grow  and  How  to  Do  It) 

Planting  Time-Tables  for  Flowers  . . . 17-20 

The  Best  Flowers  for  the  Home  Garden  . . 21-32 

(Kinds  to  Grow  and  How  to  Do  It) 

How  and  When  to  Spray 33~ 59 

In  the  Fruit  Garden  .......  33—41 

In  the  Vegetable  Garden  ......  42-48 

In  the  Flower  Garden  ......  49-53 

Shade  Trees  and  Shrubs  ......  5 3~5 5 

Spraying  Formulas 56-59 

Insecticides  for  Chewing  Insects  ....  56 

Insecticides  for  Sucking  Insects  ....  57 

Fungicides  ........  59 

Fertilizing  the  Small  Garden  ....  60-62 

Planting  Tables  for  Bulbs  . . . . . 63-64 


Note. — The  alphabetical  arrangement  of  the  text  is  so  simple  that  an 
elaborate  index  has  not  been  deemed  necessary. 


738949 


PLANTING  TIME-TABLES  FOR 
VEGETABLES 


(Allow  ten  days  for  every  100  miles  north  or  south  of  New  York) 


Variety 

When  to  Sow 

Seed  Necessary 

How  Deep  to 
Plant  (inches) 

R. ,  roots. 

S. ,  seeds 

Thin  or 
transplant  to 
(inches) 

Indoors 

Outdoors 

Artichoke,  Globe  . 

February 

i ounce  for  500 

X 

24  x 36 

plants 

Asparagus 

April 

1 oz.  for  50  ft. 

S.  1 

24  x 36 

R.  6 

Beans,  Broad 

Mar.,  April 

1 qt.  for  100  ft. 

2 

12  x 24 

Beans,  Bush  Lima 

May 

1 qt.  for  100  ft. 

2 

6 x 12 

Beans,  Pole  Lima 

May 

1 qt.  for  ioohills 

2 

36  x 36 

Beans,  Wax 

May-Aug. 

1 qt.  for  100  ft. 

2 

12  x 24 

Beans,  Pole 

May 

1 qt.  for  100  hills 

2 

36  x 36 

Beets 

April-Aug. 

1 oz.  for  50  ft. 

iH 

9 X 18 

Broccoli 

April 

1 ounce  for  1 ,000 

K 

24  X 36 

plants 

Brussels  Sprouts. 

April,  May 

1 ounce  for  1,500 

% 

18  X 36 

plants 

Cabbage  

Feb.,  Mar. 

May,  June 

1 ounce  for  1,500 

Y 

24  X 36 

plants 

Cardoon 

May,  June 

1 ounce  for  300 

tvI  ante 

1 

24  X 36 

Carrot 

April-July 

plains 

1 oz.  for  100  ft. 

y2 

6 x 18 

Cauliflower 

1 ounce  for  1,000 

V* 

24  x 18 

plants 

Celery 

February 

April,  May 

1 ounce  for  3,000 

J/* 

6 x 48 

Chard,  Swiss 

April 

plants 

1 oz.  for  50  ft. 

1 % 

9 x 24 

Corn 

April 

May,  June 

1 qt.  for  100  hills 

iK 

36  x 36 

Corn  Salad 

April— Aug. 

1 oz.  for  100  ft. 

M 

6x6 

Cress  

April-July 

1 oz.  for  50  ft. 

Yat 

3x6 

Cucumber 

March 

May-July 

1 ounce  to  50 

% 

36  x 36 

Dandelion 

April 

mils 

1 oz.  for  1,000 

VAt 

12  X 18 

plants 

Eggplant 

Feb.,  Mar. 

1 oz.  for  1,000 

V* 

36  X 36 

plants 

Endive 

April— Sept. 

1 oz.  for  150  ft. 

Y 

12  X 12 

Kale 

May 

1 oz.  for  150  ft. 

K 

12  X l8 

Kohlrabi 

May,  June 

1 oz.  for  200  ft. 

V* 

12  X 24 

5 


6 


THE  SUBURBAN  GARDEN  GUIDE 


PLANTING  TIME-TABLES  FOR  VEGETABLES,  continued 


Variety 

When  to  Sow 

Seed  Necessary 

How  Deep  to 
Plant  (inches)  j 

R. ,  roots  j 

S. ,  seeds  j 

Thin  or 
Tiansplant 
to  (inches) 

Indoors 

Outdoors 

Lettuce 

Feb.,  Mar. 

Apr. -Aug.  i 

i oz.  for  120  ft. 

X 

8 X 24 

Lettuce,  Romain  . 

April-July 

i oz.  for  ioo  ft. 

X 

8 x 24 

Melon,  Musk 

April 

May,  June 

i oz.  for  60  hills 

1 

60  x 60 

Melon,  Water  . . . 

i oz.  for  30 hills 

j 

60  x 60 

Mustard 

April,  May 

1 oz.  for  80  ft. 

lYx 

1x6 

Okra 

March 

May 

1 oz.  for  400 

% 

18  x 24 

plants 

Onion 

February 

April 

S.,ioz.  for  100  ft. 

S.  X 

12  X 24 

R.,  1 qt.  forsoft. 

R.  2 

6 x 24 

Parsley 

April 

1 oz.  for  150  ft. 

V2. 

6x12 

Parsnip 

April 

1 oz.  for  200  ft. 

X 

6 x 24 

Peas 

Mar. -June 

1 qt.  for  100  ft. 

'l 

A X ^6 

Peas,  Sugar 

April 

1 qt.  for  100  ft. 

J 

3 

T-  A J'-' 

4 X 36 

Pepper  

March 

1 oz.  for  2,000 

X 

18  X 36 

plants 

Potato  

April,  May 

t pk.  for  ioohills 

2,  early 

12  X 24 

5,  late 

18  x 36 

Pumpkin 

May,  June 

1 oz.  for  30  hills 

1 V* 

108  x 108 

Radish  

Feb.,  Mar. 

Apr. -Sept. 

1 oz.  for  100  ft. 

V2 

3x8 

Rampion 

May 

1 oz.  for  200 

V* 

3x8 

plants 

Rhubarb 

Sept.,  Oct. 

1 root  a plant 

R.  4 

48  X 48 

Salsify 

April 

1 oz.  for  75  ft. 

1 X 

6x8 

Spinach 

Mar.— May, 

1 oz.  for  100  ft. 

1 

6x18 

October 

Spinach , New 

Zealand 

May 

1 oz.  for  100  ft. 

1 

12  x 24 

Squash  

March 

May,  June 

1 oz.  for 50  hills 

1 

Bush,  36x48 

Late,  72  x 96 

Tomato 

Feb.-April 

1 oz.  for  1 ,000 

X 

36  x 48 

plants 

Turnip 

Apr. -Aug. 

1 oz.  for  150  ft. 

X 

4 X 18 

8 x 30 

Vegetable  Marrow 

May,  June 

1 oz.  for  50  hills 

1 

36  x 48 

THE  BEST  VEGETABLES  FOR  THE 
HOME  GARDEN 

ARTICHOKE,  GLOBE.  A tall-growing  vegetable  which  is 
grown  for  its  flower-heads.  It  can  be  raised  from  seed  or  from 
suckers,  the  latter  being  the  usual  method,  because  then  one 
is  able  to  perpetuate  good  varieties.  The  varieties  do  not  come 
true  to  name  when  grown  from  seed.  Seeds  sown  one  year 
will  produce  good  flower-heads  the  following  year;  they  can 
sometimes  be  had  the  same  year  by  sowing  the  seed  early 
indoors.  The  flower-heads  are  gathered  just  before  the  blue 
flowers  begin  to  appear.  The  part  eaten  consists  of  the  fleshy 
portion  on  the  inside  of  the  large  outer  scales  and  the  “ bot- 
tom/’ or  receptacle,  of  the  head. 

Grow  the  artichoke  in  rich  soil.  It  will  bear  for  two  or  three 
years.  Give  it  slight  protection  over  winter.  French  Globe  is 
a standard  sort.  The  Jerusalem  artichoke  is  grown  for  its  root. 

ASPARAGUS.  This  vegetable  is  grown  for  its  young  shoots, 
and  the  quality  depends  upon  the  succulence  of  them.  To  get 
the  best  shoots,  plant  one-year-old  roots  and  allow  them  to 
become  well  established  before  cutting  begins;  they  should  grow 
two  full  years  before  cutting.  Grow  asparagus  in  a light,  rich, 
and  well-drained  soil,  to  secure  the  best  and  earliest  results. 
Stop  cutting  the  shoots  when  peas  become  ripe — June  25  in  the 
North.  Cut  off  the  stalks  in  the  fall  before  the  seeds  mature 
(berries  turn  red),  so  that  stray  seedlings  will  not  appear  be- 
tween the  rows.  Mulch  heavily  in  the  fall  with  manure.  In 
the  spring,  use  nitrate  of  soda.  Conover’s  Colossal,  Barr’s 
Mammoth,  and  Palmetto,  are  the  best  green  varieties.  Mam- 
moth white  has  white  stalks. 

BEANS,  BROAD.  But  few  people  know  this  vegetable  in 
this  country,  but  it  is  highly  appreciated  in  England.  It  is 
used  as  a shell-bean.  They  are  as  hardy  as  peas,  but  will  not 
succeed  in  hot  climates,  and  they  are  subject  to  bad  attacks  of 
the  flea-beetle.  Early  Mazagan  and  Broad  Windsor  are  stand- 
ard sorts.  When  the  pods  have  formed,  break  off  the  tops,  to 
force  the  strength  into  the  pods. 


7 


8 


THE  SUBURBAN  GARDEN  GUIDE 


BEANS,  BUSH  LIMA.  These  are  two  to  four  weeks  ear- 
lier than  the  pole  limas.  There  are  three  types.  Dwarf  Sieva, 
or  Henderson’s  Bush  Lima,  is  the  earliest,  but  has  small  pods. 
The  young  beans,  however,  are  delicious.  Wood’s  Prolific,  or 
the  Improved  Henderson,  is  a week  later,  and  is  a stronger 
grower  and  the  pods  are  a little  larger.  The  third  type  is  Bur- 
pee’s Bush  Lima,  which,  while  being  dwarf,  has  large,  broad 
pods,  like  the  pole  sorts. 

The  seedsmen  have  improved  these  original  sorts,  so  that 
better  or  earlier  forms  can  be  had  under  such  names  as  Burpee’s 
Quarter  Century,  Dreer’s  Wonder,  Kumerle,  Fordhook.  All 
limas  are  ultra-tropical  plants,  so  must  not  be  planted  until  the 
ground  is  warm.  Set  the  seeds  on  edge  in  the  ground.  Do  not 
use  strong  nitrogenous  manures  in  the  spring;  use,  rather,  phos- 
phoric acid  and  potash.  Nitrogen  causes  too  much  growth,  and 
retards  the  season. 

BEANS,  POLE  LIMA.  Later  than  the  dwarf  sorts.  The 
earliest  of  the  tall  ones  is  the  Sieva,  which  has  three-inch  pods, 
each  pod  with  three  beans.  They  are  delicious  if  picked  before 
they  have  reached  full  size.  Large  White,  Early  Leviathan, 
Early  Jersey,  King  of  the  Garden,  Ford’s  Mammoth  Podded, 
are  all  good  varieties.  The  last  two  are  late,  but  have  pods 
five  inches  long.  For  fall  use,  plant  Potato-leaved  or  Chal- 
lenger. These  do  better  in  cool  weather.  Use  poles  ten  feet 
long.  In  cool  seasons,  when  the  plants  are  makingfmore  growth 
than  pods,  cut  the  tops  of  the  plants  off  when  they  reach  the 
top  of  the  pole,  so  that  there  will  be  more  beans  produced. 

BEANS,  BUSH.  There  are  green  and  yellow  beans.  Bur- 
pee’s Stringless  Green  Pod,  Improved  Round  Valentine,  Giant 
Stringless  Valentine,  Extra-Early  Refugee,  and  Refugee  or  1,000 
to  i,  are  standard  green-podded  sorts,  and  mature  in  the  order 
given.  A good  succession  can  be  had  by  planting  at  the  same 
time  Burpee’s  Stringless  Green  Pod,  Extra-Early  Refugee,  and 
1,000  to  i.  They  will  produce  for  two  to  four  weeks  after  the 
first  comes  into  bearing,  and  one  or  two  further  plantings  of 
these  varieties,  ten  days  or  two*weeks  apart,  will  maintain  a 
succession  all  summer.  For  the  best  beans,  grow  round-podded 
and  stringless  sorts. 

Of  the  yellow,  or  wax  beans,  Burpee’s  White  Wax,  Kidney 


VEGETABLES  FOR  THE  HOME  GARDEN 


9 


Wax,  Rust-proof  Wax,  and  Golden  Wax,  are  all  good  varieties, 
but  the  first  is  probably  the  best.  These  are  fiat-podded.  Pen- 
cil-Pod Black  and  Brittle  Wax  are  two  round-podded  varieties 
that  require  seven  to  eight  weeks  to  bear,  but  are  good  in 
appearance  and  flavor. 

BEANS,  POLE.  These  are  used  either  as  snap-beans,  or  as 
shell-beans  used  green.  White  Creaseback  (green)  is  the  earli- 
est. It  requires  eight  to  ten  weeks  to  mature.  Other  good 
varieties,  maturing  in  about  the  following  order,  are  White 
Dutch  Caseknife  (green  and  best  for  cool  situations),  Old  Home- 
stead or  Kentucky  Wonder  (green),  Stringless  Green-pod  (green), 
Golden  Cluster  Wax  (yellow),  Sunshine  Wax  (yellow),  Golden 
Carmine  Horticultural  (yellow,  and  the  best  of  the  yellow  kinds), 
Lazy  Wife,  a popular  and  very  prolific  sort;  the  last  is  a fall 
bean.  The  yellow  kinds  are  the  best  for  the  hot  summer 
months.  Plant  a few  hills  of  each  for  testing.  You  will  know 
better,  then,  what  kinds  suit  your  particular  needs. 

BEETS.  Egyptian,  Eclipse,  and  Edmund’s,  mature  in  the 
order  given.  Beets  are  better  when  young  and  tender;  so,  make 
sowings  a couple  of  weeks  apart.  The  thinnings  can  be  used 
for  “ greens.” 

BROCCOLI.  This  is  really  nothing  but  a longer-seasoned 
and  later-maturing  cauliflower,  but  better  adapted  than  it  for 
the  cool  North.  Early  White,  Mammoth  White,  and  Purple 
Cape,  are  good  varieties. 

BRUSSELS  SPROUTS.  Little  cabbages  that  grow  thickly 
clustered  together  on  a tall  stalk.  It  is  a late-fall  and  winter 
vegetable,  that  is  best  after  it  has  been  touched  by  frost.  It 
can  be  left  outdoors  during  the  winter,  if  protected  by  corn- 
stalks or  straw.  It  requires  the  same  treatment  as  late  cabbage. 
Grows  two  to  three  feet  high,  but  there  are  dwarf  varieties. 
Long  Island,  Dalkeith,  Half-dwarf,  are  good  varieties.  Good 
seed  is  essential.  The  stocks  soon  deteriorate  unless  carefully 
selected. 

CABBAGE.  Early  Jersey  Wakefield  is  the  best  early  sort. 
The  head  is  smaller  than  the  late  sorts,  so  can  be  planted  closer 


10 


THE  SUBURBAN  GARDEN  GUIDE 


together.  All  Head  is  a good  intermediate  variety,  and  Late 
Flat  Dutch  a good  late  variety.  Early  cabbages  are  started 
in  the  fall  and  carried  over  the  winter  in  coldframes,  or  they 
can  be  started  in  February  in  the  greenhouse  and  hardened- 
off  before  planting  out.  The  late  varieties  can  be  started  in 
seed-beds  outdoors.  Do  not  water  the  cabbages  after  they  have 
matured,  it  will  cause  the  plants  to  grow  more  and  will  split 
the  heads.  They  will  not  keep  then. 

CARDOON.  Similar  to  the  Globe  artichoke.  It  is  too 
large  a vegetable  for  the  small  garden,  and  valuable  only  where 
a very  large  variety  is  wanted.  The  leaves  are  gathered  together 
and  the  earth  drawn  around  the  stalks  to  blanch  them,  like 
celery;  unblanched,  it  is  not  fit  to  eat.  Large  Spanish  and 
Large  Solid  are  two  good  varieties.  It  needs  a rich  soil. 

CARROT.  Like  beets,  they  are  best  when  young  and  tender. 
Grow  Early  Forcing,  making  several  sowings  for  succession. 
For  larger  roots,  plant  Danvers  or  similar  varieties. 

CAULIFLOWER.  The  culture  is  the  same  as  for  cabbage, 
but  cauliflower  demands,  if  it  be  grown  successfully,  cool,  moist 
weather.  Plan  an  early  crop,  one  that  will  mature  before  the 
hot  weather,  and  a late  fall  crop.  Earliest  Dwarf  Erfurt  is  the 
best  early.  For  cool  climates,  plant  Early  Snowball  and  Algiers 
for  second-early  and  main  crop,  respectively.  In  warmer  sec- 
tions, make  successive  sowings  of  Earliest  Dwarf  Erfurt.  It 
requires  a moist,  cool,  and  rich  soil. 

CELERY.  A leaf  crop  that  requires  a rich  soil — one  in 
which  there  is  much  nitrogen.  Grow  in  trenches,  so  that  it 
can  be  easily  banked  up  for  blanching.  It  can  also  be  blanched 
by  boards  or  paper  placed  closely  about  it  to  exclude  the  light; 
but  earth-blanched  celery  has  the  most  flavor.  Early  varieties 
can  be  blanched  by  planting  close  together  in  a coldframe  and 
putting  a shutter  over  the  frame,  to  blanch.  White  Plume  is  the 
best  early  variety.  Golden  Self-blanching  is  nearly  as  early, 
and  equally  good,  some  people  prefer  it  to  White  Plume.  For 
main  crop,  grow  Boston  Market,  a small  variety  with  a very 
nutty  flavor,  and  Giant  Pascal,  a larger,  tender  sort.  Give 
an  abundance  of  nitrate  of  soda. 


VEGETABLES  FOR  THE  HOME  GARDEN  n 

CHARD,  SWISS.  A beet  that  does  not  produce  a large 
root.  The  leaves  only  are  eaten.  It  can  be  served  as  beet 
“ greens/’  or  the  mid-rib  can  be  removed  and  served  as  aspar- 
agus. A fifteen-foot  row  will  supply  a family  of  three.  When 
the  leaves  are  cut  off,  a new  supply  is  formed.  There  is  no 
choice  as  to  varieties,  all  are  good. 

CORN.  Peep  O’Day,  Golden  Bantam,  Crosby’s  twelve- 
rowed,  and  Stowell’s  Evergreen,  or  Country  Gentleman,  will 
insure  a succession;  they  will  mature  in  the  order  named. 
See  article  on  Sweet  Corn  in  March,  1911,  “ Suburban  Life.” 

CORN  SALAD.  Grown  as  a fall  salad,  and  can  be  used  as 
a substitute  for  lettuce,  but  it  is  not  nearly  so  good. 

CRESS.  Water  cress  can  be  grown  in  any  small  stream  of 
water,  or  in  soil  kept  constantly  damp.  Upland  or  curled 
cress  can  be  grown  in  the  garden  or  in  “ flats  ” in  a frame. 
Make  frequent  sowings  (once  in  2 weeks).  It  gives  piquancy 
to  a salad. 

CUCUMBERS.  For  an  early  crop,  grow  Early  White  Spine; 
second  early,  Cool  and  Crisp;  for  main  crop,  Long  Green. 
Start  a few  plants  indoors  on  inverted  sod  or  in  pots,  for  the 
earliest  crop.  Seed  sown  July  1 will  produce  fruits  large 
enough  for  pickling  by  fall. 

JDANDELION.  A pot-herb,  or  “ green.”  They  can  be 
blanched  and  served  as  a salad.  French  Garden,  Thick-leaved, 
and  Large-leaved,  are  good  sorts.  Seeds  sown  any  time  up 
to  June  will  be  ready  to  cut  the  following  spring.  Needs  rich 
land  and  nitrogenous  manures. 

EGGPLANT.  A hot-climate  plant,  which  must  never 
receive  checks  during  its  growth.  Start  early  indoors,  and  pro- 
vide a fairly  rich,  well-drained  soil,  and  a long  season  in  which 
to  grow.  New  York  Improved  and  Black  Pekin  are  the  best 
varieties.  Fruits  are  ready  to  eat  when  one- third  grown. 

ENDIVE.  A substitute  for  lettuce,  and  is  essentially  a sum- 
mer and  fall  crop.  It  will  thrive  when  lettuce  will  not  succeed 


12 


THE  SUBURBAN  GARDEN  GUIDE 


because  of  hot  weather.  Requires  the  same  culture  as  lettuce. 
Blanch  the  interior  leaves  by  gathering  all  the  leaves  into  a 
bunch  and  tying  them  with  string  or  raffia  at  the  top.  This 
is  done  two  or  three  weeks  before  it  is  wanted  for  use.  The 
crowns  will  sometimes  rot  when  tied  up  for  blanching,  if  the 
weather  is  rainy  or  continues  cloudy  for  some  time.  It  must 
be  used  as  soon  as  blanched.  Late  fall  plants  can  be  stored 
and  blanched  in  the  cellar  or  pits.  Make  successive  sowings 
every  two  weeks.  For  varieties,  grow  White  Curled,  Green 
Curled,  or  Broad-leaved. 

KALE.  The  culture  is  similar  to  that  of  cabbage,  but  the 
plants  are  hardier  and  require  less  attention.  It  is  grown  for 
its  leaves,  which  are  used  as  a pot-herb.  It  is  used  only  very 
late  in  the  fall  and  early  spring,  when  other  pot-herbs  are  not 
available.  It  is  not  injured  by  frost,  so  can  be  left  in  the  field 
all  winter.  The  older  leaves  and  leafstalks  are  all  improved 
by  freezing.  Good  varieties  are  Dwarf  Green  Curled  Scotch, 
Dwarf  Curled  Brown.  Sow  Siberian  in  September  for  early 
spring  “ greens.” 

KOHLRABI.  Although  almost  unknown  in  some  sections, 
it  is  highly  prized  in  others.  It  is  grown  for  its  tuberous  stem, 
— a turnip-like  tuber  which  is  produced  just  above  the  surface 
of  the  soil.  It  must  be  used  before  the  tubers  become  too 
large  and  stringy  (three  inches  in  diameter).  They  must  be 
grown  quickly  and  receive  no  check,  otherwise  they  will  be 
tough  and  bitter.  For  early  crops,  sow  in  frames  Short-leaved 
Vienna.  For  main  crop,  Early  White  Vienna.  This  latter  is 
the  kind  grown  by  market-gardeners. 

LETTUCE.  Grown  for  salad,  and  it  is  a cool,  short-season 
crop  which  is  usually  grown  as  a successional  or  companion 
crop.  Requires  a moist,  rich,  friable  loam  and  quick-acting 
fertilizers,  mostly  nitrogen.  There  are  three  kinds — loose- 
headed, of  which  Grand  Rapids  is  the  type;  head,  or  cabbage 
lettuce,  and  Romain  or  Cos.  For  the  earliest  lettuce,  grow 
Grand  Rapids;  for  main  crop  outdoors,  grow  heat-resisting 
varieties,  such  as  Deacon,  Hanson,  Summer  Cabbage  Curled 
Simpson,  Salamander.  In  midsummer,  protect  it  during 
midday  from  the  hot  sun.  Express  Cos,  Trianon  Cos,  are  the 


VEGETABLES  FOR  THE  HOME  GARDEN 


i3 


best  of  the  Romain  lettuces.  Some  of  them  will  form  a suffi- 
ciently compact  head  to  blanch  themselves,  but  it  is  better  to 
tie  the  leaves  together  to  insure  blanching.  The  Cos  lettuces 
are  the  crispest  and,  in  some  respects,  the  best  lettuces. 

MELONS,  MUSK,  or,  as  they  are  sometimes  erroneously 
called,  cantaloupes.  Cantaloupes  have  hard,  warty  rinds,  and 
are  seldom  grown  in  this  country,  although  the  name  is  fre- 
quently used.  Light,  moist  soil — one  in  which  there  is  always 
much  soil  moisture,  but  still  good  drainage — will  prove  the 
best  for  melons.  Three  to  four  good  fruits  per  plant  is  the 
usual  yield.  For  early,  grow  Netted  Gem  (Rocky  Ford  is  a 
selection  from  this,  made  famous  by  being  grown  at  the  town 
of  that  name  in  Colorado).  For  second-early,  grow  Emerald 
Gem,  and  for  main  crop,  Long  Island  Beauty. 

MELONS,  WATER,.  The  cultural  requirements  are  the  same 
as  for  muskmelons.  Early  Fordhook  is  the  best  early,  while 
Cole’s  Early  is  the  best  second-early  and  main-crop  melon. 

MUSTARD  adds  a pleasant,  pungent  flavor  to  salads. 
Make  successive  sowings  every  ten  days  or  two  weeks.  Good 
varieties  are  Chinese  and  White  London. 

OKRA.  This  is  the  vegetable  used  in  making  the  famous 
gumbo  soups  of  the  South.  It  is  a warm- weather  plant.  There 
are  two  kinds,  tall  and  dwarf,  the  latter  being  the  best  for 
home  gardens.  Grow  Dwarf  Green  Long  Pod  and  Lady  Fin- 
ger or  White  Louisiana.  The  pods  of  the  former  should  be 
picked  when  two  to  four  inches  long,  the  latter,  when  four  to 
five  inches  long;  do  not  allow  the  pods  to  stay  on  longer.  If 
there  are  too  many  for  immediate  use,  gather  and  dry  them. 
Gather  the  pods  daily,  preferably  in  the  evening. 

ONION.  For  the  earliest  sorts,  plant  onion  sets.  For  main 
crop,  Danvers  or  White  Globe.  Prizetaker  onion  was  the  first 
big  onion  grown  in  this  country.  Since  its  introduction,  in  1888, 
there  have  been  others,  notably  Ailsa  Craig.  These  onions 
frequently  weigh  one  pound  or  more.  To  be  had  at  their  best, 
they  should  be  started  early  indoors  and  transplanted.  For 
success,  grow  onions  in  a loose,  friable  loam  that  is  rich  and 


H 


THE  SUBURBAN  GARDEN  GUIDE 


free  from  stones.  It  must  be  finely  prepared,  all  stones  and 
lumps  being  removed. 

PARSLEY.  The  most  popular  herb  for  garnishing.  It  is  a 
biennial,  the  foliage  being  used  the  first  year;  the  plant  being 
destroyed  at  the  end  of  the  season  and  new  started  for  next 
year.  The  seeds  germinate  very  slowly  unless  soaked  for 
twenty-four  hours  in  lukewarm  water.  It  requires  three  months 
from  sowing  to  get  plants  of  sufficient  size  to  allow  the  picking 
of  the  leaves.  Moss-Curled  and  Fern-leaved  are  the  best  vari- 
eties. Hamburg,  or  Turnip-rooted,  has  a fleshy  root. 

PARSNIP.  To  be  good,  they  should  stay  in  the  ground 
over-winter,  but  they  can  be  harvested  and  stored  in  earth  in 
a cool  cellar  or  pit;  the  roots  must  not  shrivel;  if  stored  inside, 
the  quality  will  be  injured.  Hollow  Crown  and  Student  are 
two  standard  varieties. 

PEAS  are  hardy;  they  may  be  sown  in  the  spring  as  soon 
as  the  ground  can  be  worked.  The  ground  should  be  deeply 
worked.  English  gardeners  frequently  work  it  three  feet  deep 
and  find  that  it  pays.  Make  successional  plantings  every  six  to 
ten  days.  For  the  earliest  crop,  sow  a smooth  variety,  such 
as  Daniel  O’Rourke;  a week  later,  when  the  ground  has  warmed 
up  a little,  wrinkled  varieties,  which  are  sweeter,  can  be  sown. 
For  second  early,  plant  Nott’s  Excelsior;  for  main  crop,  Cham- 
pion of  England.  An  early  variety  for  very  late  peas  can  be 
sown  in  August.  Too  much  nitrogen  will  cause  the  plants  to 
make  too  much  growth  and  too  little  fruit. 

PEAS,  SUGAR.  These  are  edible-podded  peas,  which  are 
picked  while  the  pea  or  seed  is  still  small  and  the  pod  tender. 
They  are  broken  up,  cooked  and  served  like  string-beans. 

PEPPER.  Needs  the  same  culture  as  tomato.  Do  not 
plant  them  out  until  all  danger  of  frost  has  passed.  For  the 
earliest  fruits,  plant  Neapolitan.  Bull  Nose  and  Ruby  King 
are  two  good  main  crops. 

POTATOES.  To  get  the  earliest  potatoes,  sprout  the  seed, 
put  them  in  a warm,  light  place,  so  that  the  sprouts  can  grow; 


VEGETABLES  FOR  THE  HOME  GARDEN  15 

they  may  be  as  much  as  three  inches  long  without  h&rm.  Early 
Rose  is  a good  early  variety;  for  second  early,  Beauty  of  Hebron; 
for  main  crop,  Carman  No.  1 and  Green  Mountain.  The  variety 
to  be  grown  will  depend  somewhat  on  the  character  of  the  soil. 

PUMPKIN.  Two  good  varieties  for  pies  are  Sugar  and 
Dunkard.  They  must  be  stored  in  a warm  (450)  dry  place,  or 
they  will  rot.  Plant  among  the  corn,  to  save  room. 

RADISH.  Can  be  had  in  twenty-one  days.  Sow  as  soon 
as  the  ground  can  be  worked,  and  make  successional  sowings 
every  week  all  summer.  For  early,  plant  Early  Scarlet  Tur- 
nip Forcing;  for  second  early,  French  Breakfast  and  Long 
Scarlet.  For  storing  for  winter,  sow  seeds  in  June  of  Half-long 
Black  Spanish.  Store  these  in  damp  sand. 

RAMPION.  Roots  can  be  eaten  like  radish,  or  the  leaves 
can  be  used  as  salads.  Store  the  roots  in  damp  sand  in  the 
cellar. 

RHUBARB.  The  quality  depends  upon  its  size  and  succu- 
lence, therefore  the  soil  must  be  rich.  A plantation  will  last 
twenty  years  or  more.  Linnaeus,  Victoria,  St.  Martin’s,  are 
good  kinds.  To  get  the  earliest  stalks,  put  a barrel  over  a 
root  and  place  manure  about  it. 

SALSIFY.  A hardy  vegetable  for  flavoring  soups,  and  may 
also  be  served  as  parsnips  are.  Long  White  and  Sandwich 
Island  Mammoth  are  good  varieties.  Store  over  winter  in  sand 
in  the  cellar. 

SPINACH.  Really  a spring  and  fall  crop,  but  can  be  had  all 
summer  by  making  successional  sowings  in  cool,  moist  ground. 
For  early-spring  crops,  sow  the  seeds  in  the  fall  outdoors  and 
cover  with  mulch.  Thick-leaved  is  the  hardiest;  for  spring- 
sowing, Long  Standing,  Long  Season  and  Victoria  are  the  best. 

SPINACH,  NEW  ZEALAND.  Not  a true  spinach,  but  a 
good  substitute,  as  it  withstands  the  heat  of  summer  when  the 
true  spinach  will  not  grow  well.  Use  the  ends  of  the  branches 
and  the  leaves. 


i6 


THE  SUBURBAN  GARDEN  GUIDE 


SQUASH.  The  earliest  are  the  summer  squashes,  of  which 
White  Bush  Scarlet  and  Yellow  Crookneck  are  the  best.  For 
winter,  plant  Boston  Marrow  or  Hubbard.  Store  as  for  pump- 
kins. 

TOMATO.  Start  the  early  kinds  in  pots  or  cans,  so  that 
they  may  be  easily  transplanted  when  all  danger  of  frost  has 
passed.  Grow  on  stakes  or  trellises,  or  put  brush  about  them, 
to  prevent  the  vines  getting  on  the  ground.  For  early,  plant 
Earliana  or  Early  Jewel;  for  main  crop,  Acme  and  Stone. 
The  ground  must  not  be  too  rich  or  fruit  will  not  set. 

TURJfIP.  To  be  good,  they  must  be  grown  quickly.  Slowly- 
grown  turnips  will  be  woody,  stringy  and  bitter.  Have  rich, 
moist  soil  in  fine  tilth. 

Of  the  flat  kinds,  Milan  Purple  Top,  Munich  and  Teltow 
are  good  home  kinds.  White  rutabagas  are  better  than  the 
yellow.  Grow  Budlong’s  White  Swede.  Plant  Rutabagas  in 
June  or  July. 

Flat  turnips  for  winter  use  should  also  be  sown  in  June, 
in  New  England;  about  New  York,  July  15;  while,  about 
Philadelphia,  August  15  is  plenty  early  enough.  If  planted 
earlier  they  would  get  too  hard  and  woody.  For  spring  use, 
sow  as  soon  as  the  ground  can  be  worked. 


The  best  books  on  vegetable  gardening  are:  The  Principles 
of  Vegetable  Gardening,  by  Prof.  L.  H.  Bailey.  $1.50  net. 
Vegetable  Gardening,  by  Prof.  S.  B.  Green.  $1. 

A Book  of  Vegetables  and  Garden  Herbs,  by  Allen  French. 
$1.75  net. 

How  to  Make  a Vegetable  Garden,  by  Edith  L.  Fullerton. 
$2.20. 


PLANTING  TIME-TABLES  FOR  FLOWERS 


Variety 

When  to  Sow  Seed 

Thin  or 
Transplant 
to  (inches) 

Height 

(feet) 

Indoors 

Outdoors 

Abronia 

March 

May 

12 

V<t  to  iK 

Achillea  (Sneezwort)  

June— Sept,  i 

12 

i to  I 

Adonis 

April 

Ageratum 

March 

May 

6 

X to  % 

Agrostemma  (Rose-of-Heaven) . . 

April 

May 

6 

i to  iX 

Alonsoa 

April 

May 

6 to  12 

i to  3 

Amarantus 

April 

18 

5 to  6 

Aquilegia  (Columbine) 

Tn lv— Sent  r 

8 

2 y2 

Argemone  (Mexican  Poppy) 

April  in  pots 

May 

12 

iK  t0  2 

Asperula 

April 

May 

6 

I 

Aster  (China)  

March,  April 

May 

9 

i to  3 

Aster  (Perennial) 

July-Sept.  i 

12 

i to  3 

Balloon  Vine 

April 

May 

6 

IO 

Balsam 

April 

May 

24 

2 tO  2 Xi 

Bartonia , . . . 

May 

6 

i to  3 

Beets 

* April 

6 

T tO  2 

Black  Dahlia 

March 

May 

12 

i to  iy3 

Brachycome  (Swan  River  Daisy) 

April 

May 

6 

X to  I 

Cacalia  (Emilia) 

May 

6 

I to  2 

Calandrina 

May 

6 

X to  I 

Calendula  (Pot  Marigold) 

March 

Late  April 

6 

% 

Calliopsis  (Coreopsis) 

March 

April 

IO 

iX 

Callirhoe  (Poppy  Mallow) 

April 

May 

9 

i to  3 

Campanula  (Canterbury  Bell) . . . 

Till  v-Spnt  t 

O to  7. 

Candytuft 

April 

J ui  J 1 

May 

4 to  12 

Z IVJ  ^ 

X to  iX 

Cannabis  (Giant  Hemp) 

May 

24 

IO 

"7 


i8 


THE  SUBURBAN  GARDEN  GUIDE 


PLANTING  TIME-TABLES  FOR  FLOWERS,  continued 


Variety 

When  to  Sow  Seed 

Thin  or 
Transplant 
to  (inches) 

Height 

(feet) 

Indoors 

Outdoors 

Cardinal  Flower 

Q 

I to  2/4 

Castor-bean  (Ricinus) 

April 

May 

3 

4 to  8 

Catananche .... 

6 

2 to  3 

Celosia  (Cockscomb) 

March,  April 

May 

6 

M to  H 

Carnation  (Marguerite) 

March 

6 

i to  i yi 

Centaurea  (Blue  Bottle) 

April 

6 

2 to  3 

Centranthus 

April 

May 

9 

I to  2 

Chrysanthemum,  Annual 

March,  April 

May 

8 

i to  1 54 

Cleome  (Spider  Plant) 

April 

May 

8 

2 

Cobcea 

March  April 

8 

IO  to  20 

Collinsia 

April 

May 

8 

I to  1% 

Convolvulus 

April 

2 

% to  I 

Cosmos,  Early 

April 

May 

12 

4 

Cosmos,  Late 

April,  May 

May 

24 

6 to  8 

Dahlia  

March,  April 

•2 

4 

Dianthus  (China  Pink) 

March,  April 

May  5 

J 

6 

i to  i K 

Digitalis  (Foxglove) 

July-Sept.  1 

9 

3 to  4 

Eschscholzia  (California  Poppy) 

May 

4 

X 

Evening  Primrose 

April 

20 

i to  1% 

Flax 

May 

8 

2 to  2 54 

Four  O’clock 

April 

May 

8 

I 54  to  2 

Gaillardia 

April 

May 

6 

X to  I 

G-ilia 

May 

3 to  12 

x to  254 

Globe  amaranth  (Gomphrena) . . . 

April 

May 

6 

i 

Golden  Tuft  (Alyssum) 

July-Sept.  i 

6 

X 

Gourds  

March,  April 

May 

12 

15 

PLANTING  TIME-TABLES  FOR  FLOWERS 


19 


PLANTING  TIME-TABLES  FOR  FLOWERS,  continued 


Variety 

When  to  Sow  Seed 

Thin  or 
Transplant 
to  (inches) 

Height 

(leet) 

Indoors 

Outdoors 

Gypsophila 

April 

May 

8 to  12 

1 to  2 

Hawkweed 

April,  May 

6 

^ to  I 

Helianthus  (Sunflower)  

April,  May 

May 

12  to  36 

3 to  6 

Hibiscus 

March,  April 

July-Sept.  1 

15  to  24 

5 to  7 

Hollyhock 

March,  April 

July-Sept.  1 

15 

5 to  7 

Honesty  (Lunaria) 

March,  April 

May 

12 

I Vt  to  2 V 

Hop 

April,  May 

12 

20  tO  30 

Ipomcea  (Morning-Glory) 

March 

April 

6 

10  to  15 

Kochia 

April 

9 to  12 

2 tO  2V 

Larkspur  (Annual)  

March,  April 

May  5 

6 

I to  I K 

Lobelia 

Feb.,  April 

May 

4 

Vt 

Lupinus 

May 

6 

2 

Madia  (Tarweed) 

May 

12 

1 to  2 

Marigold 

April 

May 

6 

to'3 

Martynia  (Unicorn  plant ) 

April 

May 

24 

1 

Matthiola  bicornis 

April 

6 

Vi  to  1 

Mignonette 

March,  April 

May  10 

6 

Myosotis  (Forget-me-not) 

April 

May 

6 

Vt 

Nasturtium 

April 

May  1 

6 

1 to  10 

Nicotiana  (Tobacco) 

April 

May  10 

9 

3 

Pansy 

March 

April,  July, 

4 

V 

August 

Petunia 

Feb.,  March 

May 

6 

1 

Phlox  (Annual) 

March,  April 

May 

12 

1 

Poppy  (Annual) 

April,  Sept., 

6 

1 to  2 

October 

Poppy,  Iceland 

April-Sept. 

6 

1 

Pyrethrum 

July-Sept. 

12 

2 

20 


THE  SUBURBAN  GARDEN  GUIDE 


PLANTING  TIME-TABLES  FOR  FLOWERS,  continued 


Variety 

When  to  Sow  Seed 

Thin  or 
Transplant 
to  (inches) 

Height 

(feet) 

Indoors 

Outdoors 

Portulaca 

May 

6 

j 

Salpiglossis 

April 

May 

6 

2 tO  2/4 

Salvia 

Feb.,  March 

May 

18 

2 to  3 

Scabiosa  (Mourning  Bride) 

April 

May 

9 

2 

Silene  (Catchfly) 

March 

April] 

6 

I to  I 34 

Snapdragon  

March 

6 to  12 

54  to  3 

Stocks  (Ten  Weeks) 

March,  April 

May 

12 

i to  I 34 

Sweet  Alyssum 

April,  May 

4 

X to  X 

Sweet  Pea 

Mar.,  April 

3 

6 

Sweet  William  

March 

July-Sept.  i 

6 

2 

Venus*  Looking-glass  (Specu- 

April 

6 

H 

laria). 

Verbena  

Feb., -April 

May 

6 

i 

Zinnia 

March,  April 

May 

6 

I 34  to  2 

THE  BEST  FLOWERS  FOR  THE 
HOME  GARDEN 


TN  THE  seed  catalogues,  the  annuals  are  divided  into  three 
classes,  hardy,  half-hardy  and  tender,  but,  for  practical 
purposes,  the  amateur  need  consider  them  in  only  two  classes, 
hardy  and  tender.  Seeds  of  the  hardy  annuals  can  be  planted 
in  the  border  where  they  are  to  go,  or  in  seed-beds  before  all 
danger  of  frost  is  past,  that  is,  the  seeds  can  be  sown  as  soon 
as  the  ground  is  in  fit  condition  to  work.  The  half-hardy  and 
tender  annuals  cannot  be  planted  out  until  the  ground  has 
become  warm  or  until  danger  from  frost  is  past.  For  this  rea- 
son, the  common  practice  is  to  sow  them  in  flats  in  the  green- 
house or  window-garden,  or  in  coldframes.  If  one  has  a cold- 
frame,  it  will  be  much  easier  to  handle  all  the  seeds  of  annuals 
this  way  because  much  larger  plants  can  be  secured  by  the 
last  of  May  or  early  in  June  when  the  bulk  of  the  bedding  is 
done. 

The  seed-bed  should  be  finely  pulverized,  and  the  rows 
made  about  a quarter  of  an  inch  deep.  This  is  best  done  by 
having  a strip  of  wood  one  inch  thick  and  about  three  or  four 
inches  wide,  and  as  long  as  the  seed-bed.  On  one  side,  a small 
strip  of  wood  one  inch  square  and  as  long  as  the  strip  to  which 
it  is  attached,  is  tacked.  This  is  used  to  make  the  drills  for  the 
seed  by  pressing  into  the  soft  earth.  When  the  seeds  have  been 
sown,  glass  sash  should  be  put  over  the  frame,  or  a cheap  sub- 
stitute, water-proofed  muslin  frames. 

As  soon  as  the  young  seedlings  have  made  two  or  three 
true  leaves,  they  should  be  pricked  out  or  transplanted  to 
about  two  inches  apart  each  way.  If  pots,  either  clay  or  paper, 
are  available,  the  young  plants  can  be  transplanted  into  these. 
The  great  advantage  of  using  pots  is  that  the  roots  will  not 
be  disturbed  when  they  are  planted  in  'the  beds,  but  where 
space  is  at  a premium  this  method  is  not  essential  except  in  a 
few  instances,  such  as  argemone  and  mignonette. 

The  following  list  of  plants  supplements  the  table  on  the 
preceding  page.  The  letters  after  the  plant  name  indicate 
whether  the  plant  is  a hardy  or  tender  annual  or  perennial. 


22 


THE  SUBURBAN  GARDEN  GUIDE 


Abronia.  H.  A.  A tender  California  perennial  which  in  the 
East  is  grown  as  an  annual.  It  is  a trailing  plant,  having 
yellow,  pink,  rose  or  white  fragrant  flowers  that  resemble  a 
verbena  flower.  It  grows  six  to  eighteen  inches  high.  An 
excellent  way  to  grow  this  is  to  start  the  seeds  in  the  fall  in 
pots  in  a sandy  soil  and  store  the  young  plants  in  a coldframe 
over  winter.  A.  fragrans  is  a night  bloomer.  Remove  the  husk 
from  the  seed  before  sowing. 

Achillea  Ptarmica  (Sneezewort).  H.  P.  Grows  two  feet  high 
and  has  white  flowers  that  are  borne  in  a loose  corymb;  they 
flower  all  summer.  A double  variety,  The  Pearl,  is  the  best 
type.  It  is  one  of  the  best  hardy  white-flowered  perennials 
grown. 

Adonis  Autumalis  (Flos  Adonis)  and  A.  ^Estivalis  (Pheas- 
ant’s Eye)  are  hardy  annuals  with  crimson  or  scarlet  flowers. 
The  former  flowers  from  May  to  July;  the  latter  in  June.  They 
grow  about  one  foot  in  height.  There  are  several  hardy  per- 
ennials: Spring  Adonis  A . vernalis  has  large,  bright  yellow 
flowers  in  early  spring.  This  is  the  common  one  in  cultiva- 
tion. Apennina  is  much  like  Vernalis  except  that  the  flowers 
are  a little  larger.  It  blooms  in  April.  Pyrenaica  has  a branched 
stem,  but  the  flowers  are  smaller  than  Vernalis;  blooms  in 
July.  Amurensis  has  large,  yellow  flowers  and  blooms  two 
weeks  ahead  of  any  other  hardy  perennial.  There  are  several 
other  varieties  of  lesser  importance. 

Ageratum  (Floss  Flower).  H.  A.  Annuals  that  can  be  grown 
from  seeds  or  cuttings.  There  are  several  varieties,  white  and 
blue.  The  blue  varieties  are  best,  and  Stella  Gurney,  a bright 
blue,  is  the  best  variety.  Flowers  from  June  to  frost. 

Agrostemma  (Rose  of  Heaven).  H.  P.  It  blooms  the  first 
year  from  seed.  Grows  from  one  to  one  and  a half  feet  high 
and  has  bright  crimson  flowers  one  inch  across,  similar  to  a 
single  pink,  and  silvery  white  foliage.  Is  an  excellent  cut- 
flower,  very  free-flowering.  In  flower  from  July  to  frost. 

Alonsoa.  H.  H.  A.  A half-hardy  annual,  having  scarlet 
flowers  that  are  one-half  to  one  inch  across.  Excellent  as  a 
bedding  plant  for  small  beds  or  for  clumps  in  borders.  Grows 
one  foot  high. 

Amarantus.  T.  A.  There  are  several  species,  all  showy, 
tender  annuals.  The  foliage  is  brilliant  and  they  have  brilliant 
red  or  crimson  spikes  of  flowers.  The  foliage  of  Joseph’s  Coat, 


FLOWERS  FOR  THE  HOME  GARDEN 


23 


A.  tricolor  is  particularly  attractive.  They  grow  from  three 
to  six  feet  high. 

Aquilegia  (Columbine).  A hardy  perennial  having  red,  pink, 
blue  or  white  flowers.  The  height  varies  according  to  the 
species,  from  almost  no  stem  at  all  to  two  and  one-half  or 
three  feet.  They  require  light,  sandy  soil,  that  is  moist  but 
well  drained,  and  a sheltered  situation  that  is  exposed  to  the 
sun.  Sow  the  seeds  in  the  early  summer  for  flowers  next  year. 

Argemone  (Mexican,  or  Prickly  Poppy).  H.  A.  Mexicana 
has  yellow  flowers;  Grandiflora,  white;  Platyceras  white;  the 
foliage  is  a glaucous  green  and  very  spiny.  It  requires  a light 
sandy  soil  in  a sunny  situation.  Sow  the  seeds  where  the 
plants  are  to  stand,  or  in  pots  to  transplant.  They  cannot  be 
successfully  transplanted  from  seed-beds. 

Asperula  odorata  (Sweet  Woodruff).  H.  P.  Has  fragrant 
flowers.  Grow  in  clumps  in  the  border  or  in  a rockery.  Grow 
in  moist  soil  in  a shaded  place.  There  is  an  annual  species, 
Orientalis,  but  which  is  catalogued  as  Setosa-azurea. 

Aster,  China.  H.  H.  A.  An  excellent  bedding  plant,  but  if 
the  early  kinds  are  used  they  must  be  replaced  late  in  summer 
with  other  plants.  Put  wood-ashes  in  the  hole  where  the  plants 
are  set,  and  later  water  occasionally  with  tobacco  water  to 
kill  the  blue  aphids  on  the  roots. 

Aster  Novae-Angliae.  H.  P.  The  best  blue  fall  flower. 
Plant  for  mass  effects,  with  dark  background  or  as  small 
clumps  in  borders.  They  can  be  easily  propagated  from  seed 
or  by  division  of  the  roots;  the  latter  is  the  method  usually 
pursued. 

Balloon  Vine.  H.  H.  A.  The  flowers  of  this  are  small.  It  is 
grown  for  its  curious,  inflated  seed-pods.  Grow  on  fences  or 
trellises  for  screens. 

Balsam.  T.  A.  Prefers  a sunny  situation  and  needs  a rich, 
moist  soil.  The  double  or  camellia-flowered  varieties  are  best. 
Is  best  grown  as  clumps  in  the  border. 

Bartonia.  H.  A.  Sow  seed  where  the  plants  are  to  stand. 
The  flowers  are  two  to  two  and  one-half  inches  across.  They 
are  fragrant  at  night.  The  plants  have  rather  a straggly  habit. 

Beets.  H.  A.  The  ornamental-foliaged  varieties  are  excel- 
lent as  edgings  to  beds  if  they  have  a further  edging  of  Golden 
Feather.  The  variegated  foliage — red,  yellow  and  green — 
make  excellent  mass  effects. 


24 


THE  SUBURBAN  GARDEN  GUIDE 


Black  Dahlia.  H.  A.  Bidens  atrosanguinea  of  the  trade. 
The  flowers  are  showy,  like  coreopsis.  It  is  better  grown  in 
clumps  in  the  border.  The  tuberous  roots  can  be  stored  over 
winter  like  the  common  dahlia  root. 

Brachycome.(Swan  River  Daisy).  H.  H.  A.  The  flowers  are 
one  inch  across.  It  is  excellent  for  growing  in  clumps  in  the 
border.  It  can  be  used  as  an  edging  in  borders.  It  is  also 
useful  as  a pot  plant. 

Cacalia  (Emilia)  (Tassel  Flower).  H.  A.  An  easily  grown 
plant,  as  it  does  well  in  any  soil;  has  daisy-like  flowers  which 
are  three  inches  across. 

Calandrina.  H.  A.  This  is  an  excellent  plant  for  rockeries, 
as  well  as  borders,  and  can  be  used  for  edging.  It  prefers  a 
sunny  situation.  The  perennial  species,  Umbellata,  can  be 
treated  as  an  annual.  Full  exposure  to  the  sun  and  a light, 
sandy  soil  are  necessary  in  order  that  the  best  results  may  be 
had.  The  flowers  close  at  night.  Can  be  propagated  from 
seeds  or  cuttings. 

Calendula.  H.  A.  One  of  the  easiest-grown  annuals.  Can 
be  grown  as  a bedding  plant,  or  as  clumps  in  a border.  It 
self-sows.  The  dried  flower  heads  are  used  to  flavor  soups. 

Callirhoe.  H.  P.  Will  flower  the  first  year  from  seed  if 
started  early  . Very  free-flowering,  showy  plants,  that  are 
best  grown  as  clumps  in  the  border. 

Campanula  (Canterbury  Bell).  H.  P.  Best  grown  as  clumps 
in  the  border.  Seeds  started  one  year  will  flower  the  next. 
Protect  the  young  plants  over  the  winter  with  dry  leaves  or 
in  coldframes,  if  possible. 

Candytuft.  H.  A.  One  of  the  best  plants  for  edging,  bed- 
ding, rockeries,  or  cut-flowers.  There  are  several  varieties 
that  are  fragrant;  all  are  profuse  bloomers.  Make  several 
sowings,  to  insure  flowers  until  cold  weather.  It  prefers  a rich, 
moist  soil  and  a sunny  situation. 

Cannabis.  H.  H.  A.  Sow  the  seeds  where  the  plants  are  to 
stand.  Excellent  for  temporary  screens  and  backs  of  borders. 
Quicker  effects  are  obtained  if  the  seeds  are  started  indoors 
in  pots. 

Cardinal  Flower.  H.  P.  Must  be  started  in  February  to 
get  flowers  the  same  year.  Thrives  in  any  rich,  moist,  garden 
loam,  or  even  in  wet  places  where  the  water  is  not  stagnant. 
Best  grown  in  masses. 


FLOWERS  FOR  THE  HOME  GARDEN 


25 


Castor  Beans.  T.  A.  The  seeds  must  be  started  in  pots  for 
the  plant  will  not  stand  injury  to  its  roots.  Its  chief  use  is  as 
screens  and  as  the  center  of  tall  beds,  such  as  beds  of  cannas, 
and  for  some  tropical  effects. 

Catananche.  H.  P.  It  will  flower  the  first  year  from  seed  if 
started  early.  The  blue,  daisy-like  flowers  are  two  inches 
across.  Variety  Alba  has  white  flowers;  Bicolor,  blue  with  white 
edges.  Is  very  free-flowering. 

Celosia.  T.  A.  The  chief  attraction  of  the  coxcomb  is  its 
well-formed  flower-head.  It  is  good  for  bedding,  but  not  so 
much  grown  as  formerly.  Needs  a rich,  moist  soil.  Syringe  it 
frequently  for  red  spider.  Ostrich  Feather  is  another  variety 
that  grows  rather  tall;  it  has  showy  curled  and  curved  plumes 
resembling  ostrich  feathers. 

Carnation,  Marguerite.  H.  P.  It  is  excellent  as  a bedding 
plant  and  needs  no  edging.  Flowers  in  four  months  from  seed. 
No  use  to  try  to  hold  plants  over  from  one  year  to  another. 

Centaurea.  H.  A.  Grow  in  masses  in  the  border,  or  in  clumps 
about  the  house.  Will  bloom  all  summer  if  the  old  flowers  * 
are  picked  off.  It  self-sows.  To  get  the  earliest  flowers,  sow 
the  seed  in  the  fall  where  they  are  to  grow. 

Centranthus.  H.  P.  A much-neglected  but  very  handsome 
old  garden  plant  that  blooms  all  summer.  It  makes  an  excel- 
lent cut-flower. 

Chrysanthemum.  H.  A.  Not  the  fall-flowering  kind.  Very 
profuse  blooming  plants  that  commence  blooming  in  the  early 
summer  and  continue  until  fall.  Very  effective  when  grown 
in  masses  in  large  beds.  Pinch  back  when  the  plants  are  small 
to  make  a bushy  growth. 

Cleome.  T.  B.  An  excellent  plant  for  sandy  soil  in  sunny 
situations.  They  can  be  used  the  same  as  the  castor-oil  plant, 
to  fill  up  large  gaps  in  the  borders.  The  flowers  are  borne  in 
long  spikes. 

Cobaea.  T.  A.  The  seeds  should  be  planted  on  edge.  It  is  an 
excellent  climber  for  trellises,  porches,  and  any  unsightly 
objects.  The  flowers  are  large  and  bell-shaped. 

Collinsia.  H.  A.  Very  free-flowering.  Can  be  sown  in  the 
autumn  out-of-doors  where  they  are  to  grow  the  following 
year,  provided  the  soil  is  well-drained.  Prefers  a rich,  moist 
soil,  and  it  has  curious  snapdragon-like  flowers. 

Coreopsis  (Tickseed),  The  annual  kinds  will  flower  all  sum- 


26 


the  suburban  garden  guide 


mer  if  the  old  flowers  are  picked  off.  They  are  very  showy. 
The  perennial  form,  Lanceolata,  is  one  of  the  best  perennials 
we  have.  Both  kinds  are  excellent  as  cut-flowers. 

Convolvulus.  There  are  several  forms,  annual  and  perennial. 
Most  of  them  are  climbers.  C.  tricolor  is  a hardy  annual 
growing  only  a foot  high,  which  makes  an  excellent  border  for 
beds.  Flowers  open  only  in  the  sun. 

Cosmos.  T.  A.  One  of  the  most  showy  of  the  tall-growing 
annuals.  The  seeds  must  be  started  indoors  to  get  early  effects. 
It  makes  a fine  pot-plant  indoors  for  early  fall  flowers,  after  the 
frost  has  killed  the  plants  growing  in  the  open.  Lady  Lenox 
is  the  largest-flowered  variety;  five  inches  across. 

Dahlia.  T.  P.  The  dahlia  does  best  during  the  cool  weather. 
In  most  localities,  if  the  plant  is  started  early,  it  commences 
to  flower  during  the  hot  summer  weather,  but  the  flowers  are 
small.  Late-started  plants  produce  larger  flowers.  Stake  the 
plants  to  prevent  their  being  blown  over  by  high  winds. 

Dianthus.  H.  P.  Blooms  the  first  year  from  seed.  Hedde- 
wigi  is  the  earliest-blooming  form.  Best  grown  in  clumps  in 
borders  or  as  edgings;  are  good  cut-flowers. 

Digitalis.  H.  B.  Plant  in  clumps  or  masses  at  back  of  bor- 
der. The  seeds  will  self-sow,  which  results  in  practically  a per- 
manent plantation.  Protect  the  seedlings  over  winter  with 
dry  leaves. 

Eschscholtzia.  H.  A.  The  seeds  must  be  sown  where  the 
plants  are  to  grow.  Excellent  for  massing  or  as  edgings  to 
beds,  for  its  glaucous  foliage  looks  well  all  summer. 

Evening  Primrose.  H.  B.  Lamarckiana  is  the  best  form. 
The  flowers  open  in  the  evening  and  are  fragrant.  They  are 
four  to  five  inches  across.  Acaulis  is  a good  white  variety. 

Flax.  H.  A.  Grow  in  clumps  in  a sunny  border.  The  flowers 
last  only  a day  but  they  are  borne  in  great  profusion.  Will 
succeed  in  a dry,  sunny  place. 

Four  O’clocks.  H.  A.  A good  bedding-plant  for  sunny 
places.  Also  is  a good  edging  for  borders.  Flowers  open  in 
the  morning  and  late  afternoon,  but  are  closed  during  the  mid- 
dle of  the  day. 

Gaillardia.  H.  A.  One  of  the  showiest  and  most  useful 
annuals,  excellent  for  beds  and  needs  no  edgings  in  such  cases. 
Plant  for  mass  effects.  Keep  the  old  flowers  cut  off  and  the 
plants  will  stay  in  bloom  all  summer. 


FLOWERS  FOR  THE  HOME  GARDEN 


27 


Gilia.  H.  A.  Very  vigorous,  free-flowering  plants  that  are 
excellent  for  low  masses,  or  as  edgings,  or  to  fill  pockets  in 
rockeries.  The  seeds  should  be  sown  where  they  are  to  grow. 
They  will  succeed  in  any  soil.  Tricolor  is  the  best  tall 
variety. 

Globe  Amaranth.  H.  A.  This  is  one  of  the  so-called  ever- 
lastings. It  is  excellent  as  a bedding  plant,  remaining  in  flower 
all  summer.  The  flower-heads  are  about  an  inch  across.  It 
does  best  with  a well-drained,  sandy  loam. 

Golden  Tilft.  H.  P.  Grow  in  clumps  in  the  border  or  in  the 
rockery.  The  flowers  are  produced  in  compact  heads. 

Gourds.  T.  A.  These  are  very  useful  for  training  over 
trellises,  porches,  fences  and  unsightly  objects.  Has  orna- 
mental fruits  of  many  shapes.  Sow  the  seeds  where  the  plants 
are  to  grow,  or  start  them  inside  in  pots,  but  be  careful  not  to 
injure  the  roots  when  transplanting. 

Gypsophila  (Baby's  Breath).  H.  A.  The  habit  of  all  these 
plants  is  slender  and  airy,  and  still  they  make  a rather  com- 
pact, symmetrical  growth.  Elegans  is  most  often  grown  for 
cutting.  It  is  particularly  useful  for  adding  to  bouquets  of 
sweet  peas.  They  prefer  a rather  dry  soil,  and  are  excellent 
for  filling  in  rockeries  and  underneath  shrubberies  in  borders. 

Hawkweed.  H.  A.  A showy  annual  for  the  garden  but  a 
bad  weed  in  the  lawn,  so  that  its  cultivation  can  hardly  be 
recommended,  although  it  is  listed  in  some  seed  catalogues. 

Helianthus.  H.  A.  Grow  at  the  back  of  the  borders  or  in 
clumps  to  cover  unsightly  objects,  such  as  fences.  The  seeds 
make  excellent  poultry  food. 

Hibiscus.  H.  A.  Very  showy  plant,  the  flowers  being  three 
and  four  inches  across.  Grow  the  plants  as  single  specimens 
in  the  border.  Moscheutos  is  a hardy  perennial  that  does  well 
in  moist  soils. 

Hollyhocks.  H.  P.  Most  effective  when  used  in  the  back  of 
the  border.  There  is  a disease  which  causes  the  leaves  to  wither 
and  die  but  which  can  be  held  in  check  by  spraying  with  Bor- 
deaux mixture  from  the  time  the  plants  first  appear  above 
the  ground.  If  planted  behind  shrubbery,  any  unsightliness 
from  the  Bordeaux  or  loss  of  leaves  will  be  hid. 

Honesty.  H.  B.  Will  bloom  the  first  year  from  seed  if 
started  early.  It  is  a delightful,  old-fashioned  plant  but  sel- 
dom grown  now.  Its  chief  interest  is  in  the  large,  flat  pods 


28 


THE  SUBURBAN  GARDEN  GUIDE 


which  have  broad  satiny  partitions  which  remain  after  the 
outside  of  the  pod  has  dropped  off. 

Hop  ( Humulus  Japonicus).  H.  A.  A very  quick  - growing 
annual,  excellent  for  covering  porches,  trellises,  fences  and 
unsightly  places.  The  variety  Variegatus  has  its  leaves 
splashed  with  white.  The  seed  often  self-sows. 

Ipomcea.  H.  A.  There  are  a great  many  varieties  of  morn- 
ing glories;  the  moonflower  and  cypress  vine  are  included 
under  this  head.  They  can  be  used  to  cover  trellises,  porches 
and  any  unsightly  places,  and  can  be  trained  almost  anywhere 
on  strings.  They  need  a rich,  moist  soil.  The  Japanese  strain 
has  the  largest  flowers. 

Kochia  (Summer  Cypress).  H.  H.  A.  This  plant  is  excellent 
as  a dwarf  hedge.  In  the  fall,  the  light  green  foliage  changes  to 
a carmine  or  fiery  red.  It  makes  an  excellent  specimen  plant. 

Larkspur.  H.  A.  The  seeds  of  this  germinate  very  slowly. 
Although  the  plants  have  a rather  straggly  habit,  they  do  not 
look  bad  when  grown  in  masses.  The  flowers  make  excellent 
cut-flowers. 

Lobelia  Erinus.  T.  A.  A charming  little  plant  that  blooms 
very  quickly  from  seed  and  will  continue  in  flower  all  summer 
long.  It  is  particularly  useful  as  an  edging  to  beds.  There  are 
red  and  white  varieties  in  addition  to  the  common  blue-flow- 
ered form. 

Lupinus.  H.  A.  Sow  the  seeds  where  the  plants  are  to  stand. 
Grow  them  as  specimen  plants  or  as  clumps  in  a border.  They 
are  very  showy. 

Madia.  H.  P.  A very  graceful  plant  with  an  open  habit.  It 
can  be  had  in  flower  the  first  year  from  seed.  When  grown  in 
the  sun  the  flowers  open  only  in  the  morning  and  evening. 
Grow  it  in  a shaded  place. 

Marigolds.  H.  A.  These  showy  annuals  must  be  grown  in  a 
sunny  place.  They  can  be  had  in  short  or  tall  forms.  The 
African  marigold  has  the  larger  flower;  French  marigolds  are 
short  and  small-flowered.  The  only  objection  to  these  plants 
is  their  odor,  which  some  people  do  not  like. 

Martynia.  H.  H.  A.  A very  interesting  trailing  plant.  Its 
only  excuse  for  being  grown  in  the  garden  is  its  curious-shaped 
seed-pods,  which  make  good  pickles  when  young. 

Matthiola  bicornis.  H.  H.  A.  Very  straggly  habit,  and  dur- 
ing the  day  the  plant  is  unattractive,  but  at  night  the  flowers 


FLOWERS  FOR  THE  HOME  GARDEN 


29 


open  and  are  fragrant.  Plant  it  near  the  porch  or  windows 
where  the  evenings  are  spent,  that  its  fragrance  may  be  enjoyed. 

Mignonette.  T.  A.  The  seeds  must  be  sown  where  the  plants 
are  to  grow  as  it  will  not  permit  of  transplanting.  The  plants 
are  not  showy,  but  the  flowers  are  very  fragrant.  Make  sev- 
eral sowings,  to  insure  a supply  in  the  garden  all  summer. 

Myosotis  (Forget-me-not).  H.  P.  This  delightful  little 
plant  succeeds  best  in  shady  situations  in  rich,  moist  soil  that 
is  well  drained.  If  the  environment  is  congenial  the  plants 
will  become  established,  making  a permanent  plantation. 
Otherwise,  it  will  be  hard  to  make  it  succeed.  It  can  also  be 
used  as  an  edging  for  borders.  It  blooms  during  the  cool 
weather;  will  bloom  the  first  year  from  seed. 

Nasturtium.  T.  A.  This  plant  will  more  fully  repay  one  by 
its  lavish  profusion  of  flowers  for  the  outlay  of  time  and  labor 
than  any  other  annual.  The  tall  varieties  can  be  trained  on 
strings  or  wire  over  trellises  or  porches,  or  they  can  be  grown 
to  cover  rocks  or  unsightly  places.  The  dwarf  forms  make 
excellent  edgings.  The  flowers  are  good  for  cutting;  the  seeds 
can  be  used  to  flavor  pickles,  or  used  as  capers. 

Nicotiana.  H.  H.  A.  The  flowering  tobacco  can  be  used  as 
a bedding  plant,  either  alone  or  in  connection  with  other 
plants.  The  flowers  are  fragrant  at  night.  The  plants  will 
need  staking  to  prevent  high  winds  from  blowing  them  over. 

Pansy.  H.  A.  February-sown  seed  will  bloom  during  the 
summer  and  fall.  The  plants  flower  best  during  the  cool 
weather  and  are  used  chiefly  to  fill  beds  that  will  later  con- 
tain tender  bedding  plants,  such  as  geraniums. 

Petunia.  T.  A.  A bedding  plant  that  grows  as  luxuriously 
as  a weed,  furnishing  a profusion  of  flowers  all  summer.  The 
flowers  are  large,  three  inches  across,  sometimes  larger,  and 
are  fragrant.  It  can  also  be  used  for  edging  borders,  for  vases 
and  window-boxes 

Phlox.  H.  A.  Produces  dazzling  effects  when  sown  in  masses. 
Can  also  be  used  for  edging  beds.  Has  a very  compact  habit, 
is  a profuse  bloomer,  and  will  continue  in  flower  all  summer  if 
the  old  flowers  are  removed.  It  is  one  of  the  best  annuals  we 
have. 

Poppy.  H.  A.  To  get  the  earliest  flowers,  sow  the  seeds  in 
well-drained  ground  in  the  fall,  or  in  the  early  spring,  as  soon 
as  the  ground  is  bare  of  snow.  Make  several  successive  sowings. 


3° 


THE  SUBURBAN  GARDEN  GUIDE 


The  flowers  are  very  large  and  can  be  had  in  single  and  double 
forms.  Some  of  the  double-flowered  varieties  are  so  full  as 
to  be  a complete  ball.  They  do  best  in  a sandy  loam.  They 
are  hard  to  transplant,  and  are  not  successful  as  cut-flowers. 

Poppy,  Iceland.  H.  B.  Can  be  had  in  flower  the  same  year 
as  sown.  To  carry  them  over  the  winter  they  must  be  sown 
in  a well-drained  location.  As  the  plants  are  small  they  must 
be  grown  close  together. 

Pyrethrum.  H.  P.  They  can  be  had  in  flower  the  first  sea- 
son if  the  seed  is  sown  early.  Tchihatchewii  is  an  excellent 
variety  for  poor  soil.  The  Golden  Feather  is  a yellow-leaved 
variety  which  is  much  used  as  an  edging  in  formal  beds,  and 
in  carpet  bedding.  Its  flowers  are  unimportant.  It  must  be 
kept  sheared  to  form.  The  taller  varieties  that  usually  go 
under  this  name,  but  which  are  really  chrysanthemums,  C. 
coccinium , have  daisy-like  flowers  on  long  stems.  They  should 
be  grown  in  clumps  in  the  border.  It  is  a good  cut-flower. 
The  flowers  are  sometimes  four  inches  across.  This  is  the 
plant  which  is  meant  when  people  talk  about  the  pyrethrum. 

Portulaca.  T.  A.  An  excellent  little  succulent  for  growing 
in  dry,  sunny  places.  The  flowers  close  at  night.  They  open 
only  in  the  sun.  It  is  easily  transplanted  and  self-sown.  There 
is  no  use  of  planting  the  seeds  until  the  ground  becomes  warm 
for  they  will  not  germinate  in  cold  ground. 

Salpiglossis.  H.  H.  A.  A very  excellent  annual  for  growing 
as  cut-flowers.  It  bears  beautiful,  funnel-shaped  flowers, 
having  dark  veins  on  a ground  which  varies  from  white  to 
crimson,  yellow  and  orange.  It  will  grow  in  any  soil  but  does 
particularly  well  in  a light,  sandy  loam  that  is  rich.  It  with- 
stands drought. 

Salvia.  T.  A.  The  best  scarlet  flower  for  late  summer  and 
fall.  It  is  excellent  as  a bedding  plant.  Edge  the  beds  with 
coleus  or  geraniums.  It  does  particularly  well  in  a light,  sandy 
loam  that  is  rich.  There  are  several  varieties  which  vary  in 
height  and  in  the  shade  of  red. 

Scabiosa.  H.  H.  A.  A very  attractive  plant.  The  seeds  are 
sown  in  May  and  the  plants  commence  to  flower  in  July  and 
continue  until  frost.  The  flowers  are  small  and  are  borne  in 
large  clusters  on  long,  wiry  stems.  It  can  be  grown  either  as 
clumps  in  borders  or  in  masses. 

Silene.  H.  A.  Bright-colored  free-flowering  annuals  that 


FLOWERS  FOR  THE  HOME  GARDEN 


3i 


are  excellent  for  use  in  the  border  or  in  the  rockery.  It  prefers 
a light,  sandy  soil,  with  full  exposure  to  the  sun. 

Snapdragon.  H.  P.  The  peculiar  shape  of  these  flowers 
makes  them  very  attractive.  They  will  bloom  the  first  year 
from  seed.  The  flowers  are  borne  in  dense  spikes  that  are 
produced  all  summer  long.  It  is  excellent  as  a bedding  plant 
and  as  a good  cut:flower,  lasting  well  in  water. 

Stocks.  H.  H.  A.  An  excellent  bedding  plant,  or  it  is  good 
for  clumps  in  the  border.  The  flowers  are  fragrant.  It  is  a 
good  cut-flower,  lasting  well  in  water.  The  double  varieties 
are  best.  The  autumnal-  or  late-flowering  sorts,  which  can  be 
had  in  named  varieties,  are  excellent  for  fall  and  winter  cul- 
ture in  pots  or  in  benches  in  the  window  garden  or  greenhouse. 
The  seed  is  sown  in  the  spring  when  all  danger  of  frost  is  past 
and  the  plants  transferred  to  the  house  on  the  approach  of 
cold  weather. 

Sweet  Alyssum.  H.  A.  One  of  the  best  annuals,  good  for 
growing  in  clumps  in  the  border  or  as  an  edging.  Seeds  sown 
out-of-doors  in  well-drained  ground  in  the  fall  will  bloom  early 
the  following  summer  and  continue  to  flower  until  cold  weather. 

Sweet  Peas.  H.  A.  To  attain  success  with  sweet  peas  the 
seed  should  be  sown  as  early  in  the  spring  as  the  ground  can 
be  worked.  In  localities  where  the  winter  is  not  severe  they 
can  be  sown  in  the  fall.  A deep,  rich,  moist  soil  is  best  suited 
to  sweet  peas.  Late-planted  seeds  will  not  succeed  so  well, 
because  the  plants  will  not  have  become  established  and  made 
much  growth  before  hot  weather  sets  in.  Syringe  the  plants 
on  clear  days,  striking  the  under  side  of  the  leaves  with  the 
water  to  dislodge  the  red  spider. 

Sweet  William.  H.  B.  Blooms  the  first  year  if  seed  is  sown 
early.  Grows  in  clumps  in  the  border,  or  as  a bedding  plant. 
To  prolong  the  blooming  season,  remove  the  old  flowers.  This 
is  a splendid,  old-fashioned  plant  which  produces  an  abun- 
dance of  beautifully  colored,  sweet-scented  flowers. 

Venus’  Looking  Glass.  H.  H.  A.  A dainty  little  plant  hav- 
ing bell-shaped  flowers  one  inch  across.  It  is  excellent  as  an 
edging  plant.  It  does  not  transplant  well. 

Verbena.  H.  H.  A.  One  of  the  best  bedding  plants  and  is 
also  a good  cut-flower.  Fine  varieties  are  perpetuated  by 
cuttings.  It  is  useful  for  beds,  borders,  mounds,  vases  and 
window-boxes.  Plants  raised  from  seed  are  stronger  and  pro- 


32 


THE  SUBURBAN  GARDEN  GUIDE 


duce  more  flowers  than  those  raised  from  cuttings.  It  delights 
in  a rich  soil  with  full  exposure  to  the  sun. 

Zinnia.  H.  A.  A very  prim,  formal-flowered  plant  that  bears 
an  abundance  of  bloom  until  freezing  weather  arrives.  It 
does  well  in  light  soil,  and  is  a good  drought-resister,  but  is 
best  when  given  rich  soil.  It  can  be  used  as  a bedding  plant, 
as  clumps  in  borders,  for  edgings  and  low  summer  hedges. 
Some  of  the  newer  larger-flowering  kind  are  much  larger  and 
better  than  the  old-fashioned  sort. 


HOW  AND  WHEN  TO  SPRAY 

The  day  has  passed  in  which  fruit  trees  or  other  plants  bear- 
ing edible  portions  can  be  raised  without  attacks  from  insect 
enemies  or  plafit  diseases.  A spraying  outfit  is  a necessity. 
In  the  following  pages  the  more  important  pests  are  mentioned, 
with  the  best  means  of  holding  them  in  check. 

FRUIT  GARDEN  PESTS 

APPLE 

Aphis. — Small,  green,  soft-bodied  insects  on  the  under  side 
of  the  leaves,  appearing  in  April  and  May  on  the  expanding 
buds.  When  present  in  large  numbers,  they  cause  the  leaves 
to  roll  inward,  making  it  hard  to  reach  them  by  sprays.  In 
that  condition,  the  growth,  with  leaves,  should  be  removed. 
To  hold  them  in  check,  spray  with  kerosene  emulsion  (V)* 
or  whale-oil  soap  (VI).  They  pass  the  winter  in  the  egg  stage, 
the  eggs  being  laid  on  the  twigs  near  the  buds.  The  winter 
spraying  with  lime-sulphur  wash  (Xa)  will  kill  the  eggs. 

Canker-worm. — Measuring- worms,  f^dull  in  color.  More 
troublesome  in  New  England  and  northward  than  South. 
They  appear  in  April  and  May,  eating  the  young  foliage. 
Band  the  trees  with  a sticky  substance  in  February  or  March, 
to  prevent  the  female  from  crawling  up  the  tree.  Spray  with 
arsenate  of  lead  (I)  as  soon  as  the  insects  appear.  Repeat  in 
a day  or  two,  if  they  were  not  all  killed  by  the  first  spray. 
Thoroughly  cultivate  the  ground  in  June  and  July,  to  break 
up  the  cells  in  which  they  pass  the  winter. 

Borer. — The  grub  of  a beetle.  The  eggs  are  laid  on  the 
bark  in  June.  The  egg  hatches  and  the  grub  mines  the  sap- 
wood.  Wash  the  trunk  of  the  tree  with  carbolic  soap  (XII). 
Wrap  the  trunks  in  May,  allowing  the  wrapping  to  stay  on 
until  December.  Inject  carbon  bisulphide  in  the  tunnels. 

Bud-worm,  or  Moth. — Small  caterpillars  mining  in  the 
buds.  Spray  with  arsenate  of  lead  (I)  as  the  green  leaves 
begin  to  show  in  the  buds.  Repeat  just  before  the  buds  open, 
and  again  after  the  petals  fall. 

Codling-moth. — The  grub  that  makes  wormy  apples.  It 
enters  the  calyx,  and  lives  on  the  core,  afterward  eating  its 

*The  roman  numerals  refer  to  the  formulas  given  on  pages  56-59. 


33 


34 


THE  SUBURBAN  GARDEN  GUIDE 


way  out.  Spray  with  arsenate  of  lead  (I)  as  soon  as  petals 
fall;  repeat  in  ten  days.  Pick  up  and  destroy  all  fallen  apples. 
Cultivate  the  acquaintance  of  and,  protect  the  little  wood- 
peckers, called  sap-suckers;  they  eat  them.  Repeat  the  spray- 
ing in  June  for  the  second  brood  coming  from  your  neighbors’ 
trees. 

Curculio. — A snout  beetle  that  punctures  the  skin,  leaving 
crescent-shaped  marks,  and  causing  knotty  growth  in  apples. 
Spray  with  arsenate  of  lead  (I)  as  soon  as  the  petals  fall;  repeat 
in  ten  days.  Give  a third  spraying  two  weeks  later. 

Case-bearer. — A small  grub  living  in  a cylindrical  silk  case 
Spraying  for  the  bud- worm  will  also  exterminate  this  pest. 

Oyster-shell  Bark-louse. — A small  sucking  insect  which 
protects  itself  by  a brown  oyster-shell-shaped  case.  Spray 
trees  and  shrubs,  while  dormant,  with  lime-sulphur  wash  (Xa) 
or  with  kerosene  emulsion  (V),  or  whale-oil  soap  (VI),  in  late 
May  (about  the  25th)  and  early  June. 

Railroad-worm. — This  is  the  white  grub  infesting  early 
summer  apples.  The  best  preventive  is  to  pick  up  and  destroy 
all  windfalls. 

Red-humped  Apple-worm. — Has  a red  head  and  a red 
hump  on  its  back,  body  striped  yellow  and  black.  It  appears 
in  June  and  July,  and  strips  the  foliage  from  the  ends  of  the 
limbs.  Hand-pick,  spray  with  arsenate  of  lead  (I),  kerosene 
emulsion  (V),  or  whale-oil  soap  (Vic),  when  insects  appear. 

Tent-caterpillar. — The  insect  that  builds  large  webs  in 
the  early  spring  in  apple  and  cherry  trees.  Destroy  the  webs 
as  soon  as  they  appear.  Best  done  in  early  morning  or  late 
evening  when  dew  is  on  by  rubbing  on  and  around  the  limbs 
and  in  the  nest,  a rag  soaked  in  kerosene;  or,  spray  the  webs 
with  kerosene. 

Woolly  Aphis. — Small,  soft-bodied  insects,  covered  with 
a woolly,  waxy  covering.  Present  the  year  round  on  the  roots, 
causing  knots,  and  also  on  the  trunk  or  limbs.  Lift  soil  about 
trunk,  and  spread  an  inch  of  tobacco  (IXa),  putting  the  soil 
back  again.  Spray  above  ground,  when  present,  with  kerosene 
emulsion  (V)  or  whale-oil  soap  (Vic). 

Bitter-rot. — A faint,  light  brown  discoloration  under  the 
skin  of  the  fruit,  which  later  becomes  dark  brown.  Appears 
in  July  and  August.  Winters  in  “ cankers,”  which  are  rounded 
or  oblong  sooty — black,  sunken  spots.  Cut  off  the  canker 


HOW  AND  WHEN  TO  SPRAY— FRUIT  GARDEN  35 


spots.  Spray  with  Bordeaux  mixture  (XVIII)  or  lime-sulphur 
wash  (X)  once  before  buds  open,  and  every  two  weeks  in  July, 
and  until  fruit  is  almost  ripe. 

Rust. — Causes  bright  yellow  spots  on  leaves  and  fruits. 
Appears  in  May  and  June.  Spray  with  Bordeaux  mixture 
(XVIII)  or  lime-sulphur  wash  (Xb).  As  the  “cedar  apple,” 
or  knotty  balls,  on  cedar  trees,  is  one  of  the  necessary  forms 
in  the  life  history  of  this  fungus,  they  must  be  destroyed  if 
growing  near  apple  trees. 

Scab. — Brown  spots  upon  the  leaves,  causing  them  to  curl 
and  to  become  torn;  on  the  fruit,  brown  or  black  blotches, 
one-fourth  to  one-half  inch  in  diameter.  It  sometimes  kills 
the  blossoms.  Turn  under,  early  in  the  spring,  all  fallen  leaves. 
The  fungus  lives  overwinter  on  them.  Spray  with  copper 
sulphate  (XIII)  or  lime-sulphur  wash  (Xb)  before  the  buds 
open.  Repeat  with  lime-sulphur  wash  (Xc)  or  Bordeaux  mix- 
ture (XVIII)  when  petals  drop,  and  repeat  twice  at  intervals 
of  ten  to  fourteen  days. 

San  Jose  Scale. — Grayish  or  blackish  scales  as  big  as  a 
small  pinhead,  incrusting  the  branches  and  causing  small  red- 
dish spots  in  the  fruit.  Will  kill  the  tree.  Prune  the  tree  when 
dormant,  cutting  out  the  badly  infested  branches,  and  spray 
with  lime-sulphur  wash  (Xa)  or  whale-oil  soap  (Via),  and 
repeat  the  lime-sulphur  spray  as  late  as  possible  in  the  spring 
before  the  buds  open.  When  young  hatch,  spray  with  ker- 
osene emulsion  (V)  or  whale-oil  soap  (Vic). 

BLACKBERRY.  DEWBERRY.  RASPBERRY 

Cane-borer,  Cane-Maggot,  Tree-cricket. — These  bore 
into  the  cane,  causing  the  tips  to  die  back.  They  appear  any 
time  in  the  summer.  The  only  remedy  is  to  cut  the  cane  back 
below  the  injury  and  destroy  these  prunings  by  fire.  The  punc- 
tures can  be  seen  in  winter  when  the  foliage  is  off. 

Rose  Scale. — A pure  white,  very  conspicuous,  nearly  oval 
scale,  about  an  eighth  of  an  inch  in  diameter.  Always  present. 
Remove  and  burn  badly  infested  canes,  and  spray  with  kero- 
sene emulsion  (V)  in  May. 

Saw-fly,  or  Slug. — A little,  light  green  caterpillar,  or 
slug,  with  black  spines,  appearing  in  June,  or  early  July,  which 
eats  round  holes  in  the  leaves,  and  finally  defoliates  the  plants. 
Spray  with  arsenate  of  lead  (I)  when  the  leaves  have  expanded 


36 


THE  SUBURBAN  GARDEN  GUIDE 


or  when  the  insects  appear,  and  repeat  in  a few  days,  or  as 
may  seem  necessary.  Dust  with  hellebore  (IV). 

Anthracnose. — First  small,  and  finally  long,  irregular 
brown  or  purple  spots  on  the  young  canes.  Remove  badly 
infested  canes.  Spray  with  copper  sulphate  (XIII)  before  the 
leaves  appear,  and,  when  young  canes  are  six  inches  high,  spray 
with  Bordeaux  mixture  (XVIII),  and  repeat  frequently  until 
fruit  is  two-thirds  grown. 

Root-knot  or  Crown-gall. — A knotty  growth  at  the 
crown  of  the  plant,  i.  e.,  at  the  base  of  the  canes,  which  has 
hairy  outgrowths.  The  only  remedy  is  to  dig  out  and  burn 
infested  plants. 

Rust. — A fine  orange  dust  (spores)  on  the  under  sides  of 
the  leaves  in  June.  There  is  no  remedy.  Dig  out  and  destroy 
infested  plants,  whether  cultivated  plants  or  wild  ones,  in  the 
vicinity  of  the  fruit  garden. 

CHERRY 

Aphis. — See  under  peach. 

Slug. — Same  as  Pear-slug. 

Curculio. — Same  as  Plum-curculio. 

Black-knot. — See  under  Plum. 

Brown-rot. — See  under  Peach. 

Leaf-blight. — See  under  Plum. 

CURRANTS 

Aphis. — A small  yellow  plant  louse,  appearing  in  May  and 
found  on  the  under  side  of  the  leaves,  which  causes  galls  on 
the  leaves,  and  also  curling  of  the  leaves.  Spray  with  kero- 
sene emulsion  (V)  or  whale-oil  soap  (Vic),  when  they  first 
appear,  and  repeat  in  ten  days. 

Currant-worms. — A light-green  worm  an  inch  long,  with 
black  spots,  which  appears  in  May  or  June;  first,  near  the 
ground,  and  later  further  up  on  the  plants,  eating  the  leaves 
and  often  stripping  a bush  in  a few  days.  Sptay  with  arsenate 
of  lead  (I)  as  necessary.  When  fruit  is  half-grown,  use  helle- 
bore (IV). 

Leaf-blight. — Appears  in  June  or  July  in  the  form  of  round 
spots  on  leaves.  Spray  with  ammoniacal  copper  carbonate 
(XIV)  while  the  plants  are  in  fruit,  afterward  with  Bordeaux 
mixture  (XVIII). 


HOW  AND  WHEN  TO  SPRAY— FRUIT  GARDEN  37 


GOOSEBERRY 

Currant-worms. — See  Currant. 

Mildew. — Powdery  appearance  on  the  leaves  of  the  young 
growth.  Spray  with  Bordeaux  mixture  (XVIII)  before  the 
buds  open.  Afterward  spray  with  potassium  sulphide  (XV) 
every  ten  days,  or  with  ammoniacal  copper  carbonate  (XIV). 

Four-lined  Leaf-bug. — A small,  yellow  bug  (three-eighths 
of  an  inch  long)  with  four  black  stripes,  appearing  in  early 
summer,  eating  the  leaves.  It  is  hard  to  kill,  needing  strong 
kerosene  emulsion  (V).  Dilute  the  stock  solution  only  five 
times,  as  a weaker  solution  will  fail.  Pruning  in  winter  will 
help,  as  the  insect  winters  in  the  egg  stage;  burn  the  prunings. 

Borer. — Bores  and  girdles  shoots.  Cut  them  out  in  the 
spring  after  growth  has  started  sufficiently  to  show  which  canes 
are  dead.  At  any  time  during  the  summer,  cut  off  wilted  twigs. 

Currant  Span-worm. — Bright  yellow,  one  inch  long,  with 
white  lines  and  numerous  black  spots,  appearing  in  May  or 
June.  Let  hens  run  among  the  bushes,  or  hand-pick.  Rake 
up  and  burn  in  the  fall  all  fallen  leaves  near  bushes.  Spray 
with  arsenate  of  lead  (I)  before  fruit  is  half-grown. 

GRAPE 

Grape  Berry-moth. — A small  grub  mining  in  the  fruits, 
which  wither.  They  appear  from  June  to  August,  and  can 
be  held  in  check  by  using  arsenate  of  lead  (I)  in  the  Bordeaux 
mixture  (XVIII)  during  spring  spraying. 

Caterpillars. — There  are  several  forms  of  larvae  which 
feed  upon  the  grape  leaves,  which  can  be  held  in  check  by 
spraying  with  arsenate  of  lead  (I)  in^Bordeaux  mixture  as  the 
buds  are  opening. 

Grape  Curculio. — A snout  beetle  which  punctures  a hole 
in  the  grape  and  deposits  an  egg,  leaving  a brown  spot,  which, 
in  the  case  of  dark-colored  grapes,  turns  to  a purplish  area;  or 
the  whole  grape  may  color  prematurely.  They  appear  in  July 
or  August.  Spray  with  arsenate  of  lead  (I)  once  a week,  late 
in  June  and  in  July.  Bag  the  grapes.  This  latter  is  absolute 
insurance  against  loss. 

Flea-beetle. — A small  steel-blue  insect,  which,  both  as  a 
beetle  and  as  a grub,  feeds  upon  the  leaf  of  the  grape.  Spray 
with  arsenate  of  lead  (I)  as  the  buds  begin  to  swell. 

Leaf-hopper. — One-eighth  of  an  inch  long,  and  prettily 


38 


THE  SUBURBAN  GARDEN  GUIDE 


marked  with  green,  rosy-red,  and  yellow,  appearing  in  August. 
Spray  with  kerosene  emulsion  (V)  and  catch  on  sticky  shields. 

Phylloxera. — An  aphis  which  lives  on  the  roots  of  the 
grape.  Does  but  little  damage  to  American  grapes,  but  the 
European  or  vinifera  varieties  succumb.  To  kill,  inject  bisul- 
phide of  carbon  into  the  soil  about  the  roots. 

Root- worm. — A bluish  grub,  or  worm,  with  four  black  stripes 
and  four  light  stripes.  Inject  carbon  bisulphide  into  the  ground 
about  the  roots.  Spray  leaves,  when  the  moth  is  found,  as  for 
flea-beetle. 

Grape-root  Borer. — A worm  one  and  one-half  to  one  and 
three-fourths  inches  long,  which  bores  into  the  roots.  Dig 
them  out.  As  a preventive,  bank  soil  about  the  cane. 

Rose-chafer. — Spray  with  arsenate  of  lead  (one  pound  to 
five  gallons)  before  they  arrive  in  June. 

Grape-cane  Borer. — A brown  beetle  will  be  found  in  the 
grape  twig,  which  suddenly  wilts  and  breaks  off  in  the  spring. 
It  is  especially  bad  in  the  South.  Cut  off  and  burn  all  injured 
shoots,  and  also  diseased  wood  and  rubbish  about  the  vines. 

Anthracnose. — Deep  pits  and  scars  on  the  canes,  and  dis- 
colored leaves.  Spray  with  copper  sulphate,  six  and  one-half 
ounces  to  five  gallons,  before  the  buds  open. 

Black-rot. — A fungus  which  attacks  the  full-grown  berries, 
which  become  shriveled  and  black.  Bag  the  grapes.  Spray 
with  Bordeaux  mixture  (XVIII),  commencing  as  soon  as  fruit 
sets,  and  giving  from  three  to  six  more  applications.  Burn  all 
diseased  prunings,  rotten  fruit,  etc. 

Downy  Mildew. — Brown  downy  patches  on  the  under  side 
of  the  leaves,  rotting,  turning  brown  or  gray.  Spray  with  Bor- 
deaux mixture  (XVIII)  as  for  black-rot. 

Powdery  Mildew. — Dull  white  powdery  patches  on  the 
leaves.  Treat  as  for  black-rot. 

PEACH 

Aphis. — Black  aphids  which  live  on  the  under  side  of  the 
leaves,  causing  them  to  curl.  They  are  worst  in  May  and  June. 
Spray  with  kerosene  emulsion  (V),  whale-oil  soap  (Vic),  or 
with  tobacco  (IXb),  before  leaves  curl.  When  leaves  have 
curled,  the  only  remedy  is  to  cut  all  twigs  with  curled  leaves. 

Borer. — A soft,  white-bodied  grub,  having  a reddish  brown 
head,  which  hatches  from  eggs  laid  upon  the  bark  of  the  trunk, 


HOW  AND  WHEN  TO  SPRAY-FRUIT  GARDEN  39 


at  or  near  the  surface  of  the  soil,  during  the  summer  months. 
They  burrow  through  the  inner  bark  and  sap-wood  of  the  trunk 
and  larger  roots.  1.  Dig  them  out  in  fall  and  spring,  using  a 
sharp  knife,  and  always  cutting  with  the  grain  of  the  wood, 
never  across  the  grain.  2.  Make  a mound  of  earth  about  the 
trunk  of  the  tree  June  first,  leaving  it  until  September  first. 
3.  Wrap  the  trunk  with  paper  and  other  material,  paint  trunk 
with  carbolic  soap  (XII)  or  with  residue  of  lime-sulphur  wash, 
to  prevent  egg-laying. 

Curculio. — See  under  Plum. 

Brown-rot. — The  fruit  turns  brown  and  dries  up.  These 
are  mummies  and  hang  on  all  winter.  The  fungus  also  attacks 
the  flowers  and  growing  twigs,  killing  them.  Spray  with  cop- 
per sulphate  (XIII)  just  before  the  buds  open,  and  with  lime- 
sulphur  wash  (Xld)  every  two  weeks  until  fruit  is  nearly  grown. 

Peach-leaf  Curl. — The  leaves  have  yellow  or  red  blotches 
and  curl  up.  Spraying  with  lime-sulphur  wash  (XIa)  before 
the  buds  open  will  prevent  it. 

Peach  Rosette  and  Yellows. — No  known  remedy.  Dig 
out  and  burn  at  once  all  infested  trees. 

PEAR 

Codling-moth. — See  under  Apple. 

Midge. — A very  small  fly,  which  appears  when  the  first  buds 
of  spring  open.  It  lays  its  eggs  in  the  flowers  as  soon  as  they 
show  white.  The  larvae  work  their  way  into  the  ovule,  or  seed 
capsule,  causing  the  fruit,  when  it  is  the  size  of  a nut,  to  stop 
growth.  The  fruit  is  irregular  in  shape,  knotty,  and  the  center 
full  of  small  yellow  larvae.  They  drop  in  June.  Plant  a catch- 
crop  of  the  Lawrence  pear,  a variety  of  which  it  is  especially 
fond.  Sow  kainit  one  thousand  pounds  to  the  acre,  between 
the  middle  and  end  of  June;  or  work  an  abundance  of  pow- 
dered tobacco  (IXa)  into  the  soil  at  this  same  time,  for  then 
the  larvae  are  making  their  way  from  the  fallen  cracked  fruit 
into  the  ground.  If  a few  Lawrence  pear  trees  are  planted  as  a 
catch-crop,  the  other  trees  will  be^practically  free  from  this 
insect. 

Borer. — Rarely  present  in  large  numbers.  Larvae  similar  to 
peach  borer.  Paint  trunks  with  carbolic  soap  (XII). 

Pear-leaf  Mite. — Small  reddish  spots  appear  on  the  upper 
surface  of  the  leaves,  or  before  they  have  fully  expanded  in 


40 


THE  SUBURBAN  GARDEN  GUIDE 


spring,  which  later  become  black,  the  tissues  of  the  leaf  dry- 
ing. It  is  caused  by  a small  creature  similar  to  the  red  spider 
found  on  house-plants  and  in  greenhouses.  Spray  in  winter  or 
spring,  before  buds  open,  with  kerosene  emulsion  (V),  diluting 
the  stock  solution  with  only  five  to  seven  parts  of  water. 

Pear-tree  Psylla. — A small  jumping  louse  one-tenth  of  an 
inch  long.  There  are  two  forms,  dark  and  light.  The  dark 
form  spends  the  winter  in  the  crevices  of  the  bark,  coming  out 
in  spring,  laying  eggs  which  hatch  into  worms,  or  larvae,  that 
suck  the  sap  from  the  leaves,  and  exude  a honey  dew.  They 
are  present  all  summer,  but  are  worst  in  July  and  August.  Spray 
with  lime-sulphur  (Xa);  or  kerosene  emulsion  (V),  diluted 
only  five  to  seven  times,  when  the  tree  is  dormant;  and  with 
whale-oil  soap  (VIb)  in  April. 

Pear-slug. — A greenish-black,  slimy  slug  one-half  of  an 
inch  long,  appearing  in  June  and  July,  eating  the  skin  of  the 
leaves.  Spray  as  soon  as  they  appear  with  arsenate  of  lead 
(I),  pyrethrum  (VII),  or  hellebore  (IV). 

Fire-blight,  or  Twig-blight. — The  foliage  on  the  twigs 
turns  brown  or  black.  The  dead  leaves  do  not  drop.  Cut  off 
below  injury,  burning  the  prunings. 

Leaf-blight,  or  Spot. — Reddish-brown  spots  on  the  leaves, 
which  later  run  together,  and  finally  the  leaves  drop.  The 
fruits  have  small  black  spots,  which  may  cause  it  to  crack 
open.  Spray  with  Bordeaux  mixture  (XVIII)  or  with  lime- 
sulphur  wash  (Xb),  as  for  scale. 

Rust. — See  under  Apple. 

Scab. — See  under  Apple. 

PLUM 

Aphis. — See  under  Peach. 

Curculio. — The  worst  enemy  of  plums  and  cherries,  and  is 
destructive  to  peaches.  The  beetle  has  a long  snout  with 
which  it  pierces  the  young  fruit  just  after  the  petals  drop  (May, 
June),  leaving  crescent-shaped  scars  in  which  are  deposited 
eggs.  These  hatch,  the  grub  eating  toward  the  stone.  It 
causes  the  fruit  to  drop,  usually  when  only  half-grown.  If 
older,  the  fruit  has  a drop  of  gum  over  the  puncture.  Spray 
with  arsenate  of  lead  (I).  It  is  important  to*  destroy  this  pest, 
as  it  helps  to  disseminate  brown-rot. 

Leucanium,  or  Plum-scale. — A dark  brown  hemispherical 


HOW  AND  WHEN  TO  SPRAY— FRUIT  GARDEN  41 


scale,  one-eighth  of  an  inch  long,  which  sucks  the  plant  juices. 
Spray  with  lime-sulphur  wash  (Xa)  when  the  trees  are  dormant. 
Two  sprayings  during  the  winter  are  necessary. 

Brown-rot. — See  under  Peach. 

Black-knot. — Black,  knotty  swellings  on  the  twigs  and 
smaller  limbs,  that  are  caused  by  a fungus.  Can  be  controlled 
by  spraying  with  Bordeaux  mixture  (XVIII),  but  it  is  much 
better  handled  by  cutting  out  all  infested  branches,  before 
March  first,  as  the  spores  ripen  during  the  winter  and  spread 
in  early  spring.  Burn  at  once  all  prunings. 

Shot-hole  Fungus. — Small,  round,  purple  or  brown  spots, 
which  later  drop  out,  leaving  the  leaves  full  of  holes.  Often 
the  leaves  turn  yellow  and  drop  by  midsummer.  Easily  con- 
trolled by  spraying  with  lime-sulphur  wash  (Xa),  copper  sul- 
phate (XIII)  before  the  leaves  appear,  and  lime-sulphur  wash 
(Xd)  or  Bordeaux  mixture  (XVIII)  when  the  leaves  first 
appear,  and  repeat  every  two  or  three  weeks,  until  the  fruit 
is  three-quarters  grown. 

Quince. — See  under  Apple  and  Pear  for  insects  and  diseases. 

STRAWBERRY 

Leaf-roller. — A small,  brownish  caterpillar,  appearing  in 
late  May  or  early  June,  that  folds  the  leaflets  by  bringing  the 
upper  surfaces  together  and  fastening  them.  They  eat  the 
leaves,  which  then  turn  brown.  The  best  method  of  destroy- 
ing the  pest  is  to  mow  and  burn  the  leaves  after  the  fruit  has 
been  gathered. 

Root-aphis. — These  grow  on  the  roots,  and  are  bluish  in 
color.  Clean  plants  only  should  be  set.  Infested  plants  can 
be  cleaned  before  setting  by  fumigating  with  tobacco  (IXc), 
dipping  them  in  tobacco  juice,  (IXb),  or  stirring  into  the 
ground  around  infested  plants  tobacco  dust  (IXa). 

Saw-fly. — Give  the  same  treatment  as  for  raspberry  saw-fly. 

Weevil. — A small  black-snout  beetle  similar  to  the  curculio, 
which  deposits  its  eggs  in  the  buds,  and  then  partly  gnaws 
off  the  stems  below  the  buds,  causing  them  to  wilt.  No  remedy. 
Pick  off  and  burn  drooping  flower  stalks. 

Leaf-blight,  Leaf-spot,  or  Rust. — Reddish  or  purplish 
spots  on  the  leaves.  Spray  with  Bordeaux  mixture  (XVIII). 
Removing  the  leaves,  as  advised  for  the  leaf  roller,  helps  to 
diminish  this  pest. 


42 


THE  SUBURBAN  GARDEN  GUIDE 


IN  THE  VEGETABLE  GARDEN 
ALL  VEGETABLES 

Aphis. — Small  black,  red  or  green  sucking  insects,  as  big  as 
a pin-head,  usually  the  under  side  of  the  leaves.  Spray  with 
whale-oil  soap  (Vic),  tobacco  water  (IXb),  or  kerosene  emul- 
sion (V). 

Cutworms. — Soft-bodied,  hairless  grubs,  living  in  the  ground 
during  the  day  and  foraging  at  night.  They  vary  in  color 
from  black  to  white,  and  are  particularly  harmful  in  March, 
April  and  May.  They  cut  off  the  plants  at  the  surface  of  the 
ground,  i.  Use  poisoned  bran  mash  (III),  putting  around  a 
few  days  before  planting,  or  protect  the  plants  by  placing  a 
ring  of  the  mash  around  each  plant.  2.  Wrap  brown  or  manila 
paper  about  each  plant  before  planting,  letting  the  paper 
extend  one  and  one-half  inches  above  and  below  the  ground. 
The  paper  will  last  long  enough  for  the  plants’  stems  to  become 
tough  enough  not  to  be  good  cutworm  food. 

Wireworms. — Long,  slender,  cylindrical  worms,  with  hard, 
shiny,  smooth,  yellow  bodies,  having  three  pairs  of  legs  close 
to  the  head.  They  do  much  damage  in  April  and  May  by  bor- 
ing into  seeds,  eating  the  surface  of  root-crops,  and  cutting 
the  tops  of  such  crops  as  they  appear  above  ground.  Scatter 
poisoned  slices  of  potatoes  about  field  known  to  be  infested, 
and  cover  with  boards.  Soak  corn  in  solution  of  strychnine 
and  sow  over  field  two  weeks  before  planting. 

Flea-beetles. — Small,  black,  shiny  beetles,  as  big  as  a pin- 
head, that  jump  about  like  fleas.  Although  a fungicide,  the 
best  remedy  is  to  coat  the  plants  with  Bordeaux  mixture 
(XVIII).  These  are  particularly  bad  on  potatoes  and  tomatoes. 

ASPARAGUS 

Asparagus  Beetle. — A slender  beetle,  one-quarter  of  an 
inch  long,  blue-black,  with  yellow  spots  on  back.  Both  the 
beetle  and  its  grub  (young)  attack  the  tender  shoots,  eating 
holes  in  them,  and  the  beetle  lays  rows  of  dark  eggs  upon  the 
stalks.  The  larvae  can  be  killed  by  dusting  fresh  air-slaked 
lime  on  the  plants  in  the  early  morning  while  the  dew  is  on. 

Rust. — Blister-like  spots  on  the  skin  cf  the  stem,  under 
which  are  the  brown  spores.  It  causes  the  plants  to  have  the 
appearance  of  maturing  early.  Cut  off  and  burn  all  infested 


HOW  AND  WHEN  TO  SPRAY— VEGETABLES  43 


stalks  in  the  fall,  and  in  August  spray  three  times,  ten  days 
apart,  with  Bordeaux  mixture  (XVIII). 

BEAN 

Seed-corn  Maggot. — A small  grub  which  scrapes  and  eats 
seeds,  sprouts,  and  underground  stems.  Soak  the  ground,  as 
soon  as  injury  is  apparent,  with  hellebore,  two  ounces  to  one 
gallon  of  water. 

Weevil. — A small  brownish  gray  or  olive  snout-beetle. 
Throw  bean  seed  lightly  into  water;  those  so  badly  damaged 
as  to  be  useless  will  float.  Burn  them.  Dry  the  balance,  and 
sow  at  once. 

Anthracnose,  or  Podspot. — Affects  leaves,  stems  and  pods, 
causing  unsightly  sunken  spots.  Soak  bean  seeds  one  to  two 
hours  in  ammoniacal  copper  carbonate  (XIV)  before  plant- 
ing. Spray  the  young  plants,  when  they  are  two  to  three 
inches  high,  with  Bordeaux  mixture  (XVIII).  Repeat  in  ten 
days,  and  again  as  soon  as  the  plants  have  flowered.  By 
selecting  your  own  seed  from  pods  which  are  not  infested, 
you  can  largely  avoid  this  disease. 

Blight. — Attacks  lima,  as  well  as  common,  beans.  It 
appears  on  all  parts  of  the  plants;  small  yellowish  spots,  increas- 
ing in  size,  and  which  later  turn  brown.  The  disease  can  eas- 
ily be  told  from  anthracnose,  as  the  spots  are  not  sunken.  It 
is  less  prevalent  on  fresh  land.  Burn,  in  the  fall,  all  bean 
vines,  as  the  bacteria  live  over  winter  on  the  vines.  Keep 
the  plants  free  from  insects;  they  help  to  spread  the  disease. 

Downy  Mildew. — Downy  patches  on  the  leaves,  that  are 
very  destructive  at  times.  Spraying  with  Bordeaux  mixture 
(XVIII),  as  suggested  for  anthracnose,  will  prevent  it. 

BEETS 

Plant-bugs. — A flattened,  sucking  bug,  one-fourth  of  an 
inch  long;  brown,  with  yellow  and  black  markings.  These 
hibernate  under  grass  and  rubbish.  Burn  all  rubbish  about 
garden.  Spray  with  kerosene  emulsion  (V). 

Leap-spot. — A leaf-spot  fungus  attacks  the  leaves,  causing 
them  to  drop  prematurely.  Spray  with  Bordeaux  mixture 
(XVIII)  every  two  weeks. 

Scab. — Same  as  potato  scab.  Do  not  grow  beets  on  land 
that  has  grown  scabby  beets  or  potatoes. 


44 


THE  SUBURBAN  GARDEN  GUIDE 


CABBAGE  AND  CAULIFLOWER 

Cabbage-looper. — A green  worm,  one  to  one  and  one- 
fourth  inches  long,  lined  with  white,  which  loops  like  a span- 
worm.  Give  same  treatment  as  for  cabbage-worm. 

Cabbage-maggot. — A small  white  maggot,  one-third  of  an 
inch  long.  Sometimes  two  or  three  work  on  the  same  root. 
Spread  a tablespoonful  of  tobacco  dust  (IXa)  about  each 
plant,  when  planting;  renew  it  once  a week  for  three  weeks. 

Cabbage  Plusia.— A dark  gray  moth,  deposits  pale  green- 
ish yellow  eggs,  singly  or  in  clusters,  on  the  upper  surface 
(usually)  of  cabbage  leaves.  These  hatch,  and  the  resulting 
pale  green  grubs  are,  when  mature,  an  inch  long.  They  bore 
holes  in  the  cabbage  head.  Spray  with  kerosene  emulsion  (V), 
adding,  if  necessary,  resin  soap  (II)  to  make  it  stick.  Dust 
with  pyre  thrum  (VII),  adding,  for  convenience  of  handling, 
two  parts  of  flour. 

Cabbage-worm:. — Velvety  green  caterpillar,  more  than  one 
inch  long  when  mature.  Present  from  planting-time  on,  and 
damages  plants  by  eating  holes  in  the  leaves.  Spray  with 
arsenate  of  lead  (I),  to  which  has  been  added  resin-soap  (II). 
After  heading  commences,  use  hellebore  (IV). 

Harlequin  Bug. — One  of  the  “ stink  ” bugs.  Shiny  black, 
or  dark  blue,  with  red  or  yellow  spots.  It  sucks  the  sap.  Pres- 
ent in  numbers  in  April  and  May.  Plant  a trap-crop  of  mus- 
tard, radish  or  rape,  a few  days  before  planting  the  crop, 
and,  when  the  bugs  have  collected  on  theirt,  spray  with  pure 
kerosene  or  kerosene  emulsion  (V),  stock  solution,  diluted 
with  four  parts  of  water. 

Brown-  or  Black-rot. — This  dwarfs  the  heads  or  makes 
them  one-sided,  and,  in  cases  of  early  infection,  there  may  be 
no  head  at  all.  Upon  examination  of  the  stumps  of  affected 
plants,  a brown  or  black  ring  will  be  observed,  corresponding 
to  the  woody  part  of  the  stem.  There  is  no  remedy,  preven- 
tive measures  only  can  be  used.  Plant  only  on  clean  land  and 
from  uninfested  seed-beds;  avoid  a succession  of  cruciferous 
crops  on  the  same  land.  Remove  at  once,  and  destroy  badly 
infested  plants  and  leaves. 

Club-root. — Knotty,  twisted  root  growths  which  stunt  the 
development  of  the  head.  It  is  caused  by  a slime  mold.  Rotate 
the  crops,  never  growing  cruciferous  crops  twice  in  succession 
on  the  same  land.  Give  land  oh  which  these  crops  are  to  be 


HOW  AND  WHEN  TO  SPRAY— VEGETABLES  45 


grown  a dressing  of  fresh  stone  lime  and  sulphur  (VHId),  using 
two  bushels  to  a piece  of  land  twenty-five  by  fifty  feet  (or 
seventy-five  to  eighty  bushels  per  acre). 

CELERY 

Celery  Caterpillar. — A handsome  and  conspicuous  cat- 
erpillar which  feeds  upon  the  leaves.  They  are  about  two 
inches  long,  and  bright  green  with  broken  black  bands.  Spray 
with  arsenate  of  lead  (I)  when  the  plants  are  small.  Hand- 
pick. Poultry  and  birds  will  not  eat  them,  probably  because 
of  the  offensive  odor  they  emit. 

Leap-spot  or  Blight. — Rusty,  brown  spots  on  the  leaves 
of  celery,  appearing  in  June  and  July.  It  can  be  held  in  check 
by  spraying  with  Bordeaux  mixture  (XVIII)  every  ten  days 
until  the  plants  are  well  advanced,  when  ammoniacal  copper 
carbonate  (XIII)  should  be  used,  to  prevent  spotting. 

CORN 

Corn-ear  Worm. — Green  worms  which,  when  full-grown, 
are  an  inch  long.  They  feed  upon  the  kernels.  Hand-picking 
is  the  best  remedy,  and  it  can  be  greatly  helped  by  fall  plowing. 

Corn-root  Aphis. — Root  aphis  fostered  by  . ants.  They  can 
be  largely  reduced  by  plowing  corn-fields  in  late  fall.  Frequent 
cultivation  with  cultivator  or  disk  harrow  will  also  help. 
Treating  the  seed-corn  with  the  following  is  also  recommended: 
One  gallon  wood  alcohol,  one  pint  oil  of  lemon.  Thoroughly 
mix  and  sprinkle  three  ounces  or  six  tablespoonfuls  over  four 
quarts  of  seed,  before  planting. 

Smut. — Black,  sooty  growth  on  the  ears.  No  remedy; 
pull  out  all  infested  plants. 

CUCUMBER.  PUMPKIN.  SQUASH.  MELON 

Melon-louse. — A greenish  black  plant  louse  with  or  with- 
out wings,  that  suck  the  sap.  They  are  present  from  early 
spring.  Spray  with  kerosene  emulsion  (V)  made  of  whale-oil 
soap  instead  of  hard  soap,  and  dilute  twelve  to  fifteen  times. 
Be  sure  to  get  it  on  the  under  side  of  the  leaves. 

Squash-bug. — A rusty,  black,  flattened  bug,  half  an  inch 
long,  that  sucks  the  plant  juices.  It  has  a repulsive,  buggy 
odor.  They  winter-over  under  boards,  leaves,  etc.,  appearing 
in  late  spring  or  early  summer.  Hand-pick  during  the  cooler 


46 


THE  SUBURBAN  GARDEN  GUIDE 


part  of  the  day  when  they  are  sluggish,  dropping  them  into  a 
can  containing  kerosene.  In  the  fall,  thousands  can  be  slaught- 
ered by  laying  shingles  or  small  boards  about  the  garden.  The 
bugs  will  gather  on  the  under  side  to  pass  the  cool  nights,  and 
from  these  traps  early  morning  collections  may  be  made. 

Striped  Cucumber-beetle. — A beetle,  one-fifth  of  an  inch 
long,  straw  yellow  in  color  with  three  black  stripes  on  the  back. 
They  gnaw  the  skin  of  the  stem  and  eat  holes  in  the  leaves 
of  young  plants.  Protect  by  shallow  frames  covered  with  mos- 
quito netting.  Sprinkle  tobacco  dust  (IXa)  on  the  leaves 
while  the  dew  is  on.  Spray  with  Bordeaux  mixture  (XVIII) 
containing  arsenate  of  lead. 

Anthracnose. — Causes  circular  dead  spots  in  the  leaves, 
one-fourth  of  an  inch  in  diameter.  Use  Bordeaux  mixture 
(XVIII).  This  can  be  checked  after  it  appears. 

Downy  Mildew. — Appears  late  in  July  or  in  early  August. 
It  causes  angular  yellow  spots  on  the  leaves,  later  the 
whole  leaf  turns  yellow  and  dies.  Commence  spraying  about 
July  20  with  Bordeaux  mixture  (XVIII),  and  repeat  every 
seven  to  nine  days. 

Leaf-blight. — More  particularly  destructive  to  melons. 
Large  dead  areas  are  noticed  on  the  leaves,  which  can  be  told 
from  downy  mildew  by  the  tendency  to  break  out,  leaving 
holes.  Spraying  with  Bordeaux  mixture  (XVIII),  as  for  downy 
mildew,  will  hold  it  in  check  for  a time  at  least.  Repeat  every 
seven  to  nine  days,  and  be  thorough. 

LETTUCE 

Lettuce-rot. — Caused  by  a rot  fungus,  and  is  more  fre- 
quent indoors  than  out.  The  plants  rot  off  at  the  surface,  and 
the  central  portion  of  heading  varieties  becomes  attacked. 
Sterilize  the  soil  with  steam.  Maintain  a temperature  of  less 
than  50°  Fahr.  at  night;  too  high  a temperature  helps  to  induce 
rot.  Ventilate  the  house  thoroughly  at  all  times.  Burn  all 
infested  portions  of  the  plants. 

ONIONS 

Black  Onion-fly. — A white  maggot,  a little  larger  than  the 
onion  maggot,  that  feeds  on  stored  as  well  as  growing  onions. 
Fumigate  stored  onions  with  bisulphide  of  carbon  for  forty- 
eight  hours,  using  one  pound  of  liquid  to  one  hundred  cubic 
feet  of  space  to  be  treated. 


HOW  AND  WHEN  TO  SPRAY— VEGETABLES  47 

Onion-Maggot. — The  maggot  (grub)  of  a small  fly,  resem- 
bling the  house-fly.  The  egg  is  laid  on  the  young  plants  early 
in  the  season,  and  the  grub  eats  into  the  bulb.  The  treatment 
for  cabbage  maggots  helps.  Kerosene-soaked  sand  placed  about 
the  plant  also  helps.  Fertilize  freely,  to  stimulate  a strong 
growth. 

Thrips. — Small  (one-twentieth  of  an  inch  long),  active, 
yellowish-winged  insects,  that  jump  like  fleas,  and  feed  on  the 
skin  of  the  leaves.  Clean  away  all  weeds  from  about  the  gar- 
den, before  planting.  Spray  frequently,  when  insects  are  found 
to  be  present,  with  kerosene  emulsion  (V)  or  tobacco  water 
(IXb). 

Smut. — A very  bad  fungus  that  attacks  the  plants  when  they 
are  very  young.  It  appears  in  the  form  of  a black,  dusty  pow- 
der on  various  parts  of  the  plant.  Onions  started  in  sterile 
soil,  and  transplanted  outdoors  later,  will  not  be  attacked. 
Where  seeds  must  be  planted  outdoors  in  infected  soil,  sow 
flowers  of  sulphur  in  the  rows,  or  put  a dripper  attachment  on 
the  drilling  machine  and  drip  a formaldehyde  solution  in  the 
rows.  Use  one  pound  forty  per  cent  formaldehyde  to  twenty- 
five  to  thirty-three  gallons  of  water,  and  use  fifteen  gallons  of 
the  solution  to  a lot  twenty-five  by  fifty  feet  (five  hundred  to 
seven  hundred  gallons  to  the  acre). 

PEA 

Pea-louse,  or  Aphis. — Pea-green  in  color  and  one-fourth  of 
an  inch  long.  They  usually  are  found  clustered  about  the 
young  growth,  sucking  the  sap.  Spray  frequently  with  kero- 
sene emulsion  (V). 

Powdery  Mildew. — A whitish,  powdery  coating  on  the 
leaves  and  stems;  also  sometimes  dark  pin-head  spots  may  be 
noticed  in  these  white  coverings.  Spray  with  Bordeaux  mix- 
ture (XVIII),  to  which  resin-soap  (II)  should  be  added  to  make 
it  stick.  One  to  two  sprayings  will  be  sufficient. 

POTATO 

Potato-beetle. — A hemispherical  beetle,  three-eighths  of 
an  inch  long.  Light  yellow  in  color  with  ten  black  stripes. 
The  slugs  are  round,  red,  soft-bodied,  with  black  dots.  They 
are  present  all  summer  and  eat  the  foliage.  Spray  every  ten 
days  or  two  weeks  with  arsenate  of  lead  (I).  It  can  be  added 
to  the  Bordeaux  mixture  used  to  spray  for  blight. 


48 


THE  SUBURBAN  GARDEN  GUIDE 


Potato-blight,  Early  and  Late. — Leaves  become  black 
and  die.  They  usually  have  a whitish  fungous  growth  on  the 
underside.  The  late  fungus  causes  the  wet  rot  of  stored  pota- 
toes. Spray  every  two  weeks  with  Bordeaux  mixture  (XVIII). 
The  arsenate  of  lead  for  the  bugs  can  be  added  to  this,  and 
the  two  sprays  made  at  once.  Air-slaked  lime  in  the  bins 
among  the  potatoes  will  help  to  check  the  wet  rot  of  stored 
potatoes. 

Scab. — Causes  the  dark,  scabby  spots  on  the  skins  of  the 
potatoes.  Plant  clean  seed,  and  avoid  the  use  of  stable  ma- 
nure on  the  land.  Soak  the  seed  (cut  tubers)  two  hours  in  for- 
maldehyde (XVI),  or  one  and  one-half  hours  in  corrosive  sub- 
limate (XVII). 

SQUASH.  PUMPKINS 

Squash-vine  Borer. — A white  grub,  one  inch  long  when 
full-grown,  that  bores  in  the  stem  down  into  the  root.  The 
borer  can  usually  be  found  near  the  level  of  the  soil.  Plant  as 
early  as  possible,  between  what  will  be  the  rows  of  the  main 
crop,  a trap-crop  of  summer  squashes  on  the  ground  where  the 
main  crop  is  to  be  grown,  and  destroy  them  later.  Cover  sev- 
eral places  on  the  stems  with  soil,  so  that  they  can  root,  so  as 
to  be  sure  that  the  plants  will  grow  even  though  the  borer 
does  injury  to  the  root. 

SWEET  POTATO 

Tortoise-beetle. — Somewhat  resembles  the  lady-beetle  in 
size,  and  shape;  in  color  they  resemble  burnished  gold.  They 
eat  holes  in  the  leaves.  Spray  with  arsenate  of  lead  (I)  if 
injury  threatens  to  become  serious. 

TOMATO 

Tomato-worm,  or  Horn-worm. — The  caterpillar  of  a sphinx 
moth.  A light-green  worm  having  whitish  oblique  stripes, 
which  when  full-grown  is  three  inches  long  and  as  thick  as  a 
man’s  finger.  It  eats  the  foliage.  Hand-picking  is  the  best 
remedy  in  the  small  garden. 

Blossom-drop. — The  flowers  drop  off  before  becoming  fer- 
tilized. The  common  cause  of  this  is  too  rich  a ground  or  too 
much  water,  either  of  which  causes  too  luxuriant  a growth. 
Avoid  heavy  applications  of  nitrogenous  manures  and  culti- 
vate thoroughly. 


HOW  AND  WHEN  TO  SPRAY— FLOWERS 


49 


Leaf-  Spot,  or  Leaf-blight. — Small  whitish  round  spots 
on  the  leaves,  which  can  be  prevented  by  three  or  four  spray- 
ings with  Bordeaux  mixture  (XVIII). 

IN  THE  FLOWER  GARDEN 
ALL  PLANTS  INDOORS 

Red-spider. — Very  small  red  mites  living  on  the  under  sides 
of  the  leaves  and  protecting  themselves  by  a web.  They  are 
not  troublesome  in  humid  atmosphere  but  thrive  in  arid  con- 
ditions. They  are  particularly  troublesome  in  greenhouses  in 
very  cold  weather.  The  best  remedy  is  clean  water  syringed 
on  the  plants,  striking  the  under  side  of  the  leaves  with  con- 
siderable force,  to  knock  them  off. 

White-fly. — A minute  white  fly  which  lays  its  eggs  on 
tomato  and  other  plants.  The  larvae  suck  the  plant  juices  and 
exude  a “ honey  dew.”  On  this  honey  dew  there  lives  a mold. 
Fumigating  with  tobacco  regularly  will  usually  hold  these  in 
check  if  the  houses  are  free  from  them  in  the  fall,  but,  once 
they  get  bad,  the  only  remedy  is  to  fumigate  with  hydrocyanic 
acid  gas,  and,  as  this  is  an  extremely  poisonous  article,  its  use 
is  not  advised  except  by  those  competent  to  handle  it.  Its 
effect  on  plants  is  different;  some  can  stand  a strong  gas,  while 
others  are  injured  by  it.  Our  Bureau  of  Information  will  give 
those  who  wish  to  use  it  specific  directions. 

BARBERRY 

Rust. — While  not  particularly  destructive  to  the  barberry 
itself,  the  plant  acts  as  a host  for  one  form  of  the  wheat  rust. 
Do  not  have  barberries  growing  near  wheat  fields. 

CARNATION 

Aphis. — Pale-green  plant-lice  or  aphis  found  on  the  stems 
and  leaves  sucking  the  plant’s  sap.  Fumigate  the  greenhouse 
regularly — twice  a week,  two  evenings  in  succession — with 
tobacco  (IXc)  or  any  of  the  tobacco  compounds  now  on  the 
market.  Syringe  the  plants  the  morning  after,  to  knock  olf 
dead  and  stunned  aphis. 

Anthracnose. — Grayish  brown  sunken  spots  on  the  leaves. 
Spray  the  plants  with  ammoniacal  copper  carbonate  solution 


5o 


THE  SUBURBAN  GARDEN  GUIDE 


(XIV)  frequently.  Maintain  good  growing  conditions  at  all 
times. 

Rust. — An  exceedingly  serious  carnation  disease.  Little 
blisters  which  open,  giving  off  reddish  brown  spores.  The 
treatment  is  more  preventive  than  curative.  Spray  the 
plants  every  week  or  ten  days  with  ammoniacal  copper  car- 
bonate (XIV).  Keep  the  plants  in  good  condition;  avoid 
checks  of  any  sort.  Syringe  the  plants  in  the  morning  only, 
so  that  the  leaves  will  be  dry  by  nightfall.  Pick  off  all  dis- 
eased leaves. 

CHRYSANTHEMUM 

Aphis. — Black  plant-lice  living  on  the  under  side  of  the 
leaves,  sucking  sap.  Fumigate  with  tobacco  (IXc)  twice  a 
week,  as  directed  for  carnation  aphis.  Do  not  fumigate  after 
the  buds  have  shown  color. 

Leaf-spot. — Brown  or  black  spots  on  the  leaves,  appearing 
in  September.  They  grow  larger,  causing  the  leaf  to  drop  off. 
Spray  with  ammoniacal  copper  carbonate  (XIV)  every  ten 
days  or  two  weeks;  keep  the  greenhouse  well  ventilated.  On 
dull  days  in  the  early  fall,  have  a little  fire  heat  in  the  house 
and  ventilate  the  house. 

Powdery  Mildew. — A powdery  white  growth  on  the 
leaves,  which  can  be  held  in  check  by  dusting  the  leaves  with 
flowers  of  sulphur  (VIIIc).  It  will  not  occur  if  good  ventilation 
is  always  maintained  and  there  are  no  checks  given  the  plants. 

DAHLIA 

Tarnished  Plant-bugs. — The  same  as  infests  the  straw- 
berry. The  second  brood  appears  in  July  and  August  on  dah- 
lias, asters,  sunflowers,  and  other  fall  flowers.  Hand-pick; 
dust  plants  with  pyrethrum  powder  (VII)  or  spray  with  ker- 
osene emulsion  (V). 

HOLLYHOCK 

Rust. — The  fungus  will  be  recognized  by  dense  yellowish 
or  brownish  dusty  spots  on  the  underside  of  the  leaves.  It  is 
a serious  disease.  Spray  the  plants  every  ten  days  or  two 
weeks  with  Bordeaux  mixture  (XVIII)  from  the  time  the  leaves 
show  above  ground  until  they  are  about  to  flower.  Continue 
after  the  plants  are  through  flowering. 


HOW  AND  WHEN  TO  SPRAY— FLOWERS 


5i 


HOUSE  PLANTS 

Aphis. — The  same  as  described  for  carnations  and  chrysan- 
themums. In  the  house,  spray  with  soapsuds;  this  is  the 
easiest  and  cleanest  way  of  fighting  the  pest. 

Mealy-bugs. — Soft-bodied  insects  that  protect  themselves 
with  a sort  of  woolly  wax.  They  are  more  partial  to  coleus, 
but  infest  other  house-plants.  Drop  one  drop  of  kerosene  oil 
or  alcohol  on  each  insect  by  using  a wooden  toothpick. 

Nematodes. — A parasitic  worm  infesting  roses,  begonias, 
and  sometimes  other  plants.  They  cause  small  bead-like  galls 
upon  the  roots.  The  leaves  dry  up.  There  is  no  remedy. 
Destroy  plants  growing  in  infested  soil,  and  the  soil  too.  Use 
fresh  soil,  potting  plants  next  winter. 

Scale  Insects. — There  are  several  small  scale  insects  infest- 
ing house-plants.  One  is  small,  round  and  white;  the  other  is 
a brown,  hemispherical  one,  like  the  plum  scale.  These  can  be 
cleaned  off  by  rubbing  with  a sponge,  the  more  obstinate  ones 
by  scratching  with  the  finger-nail. 

MORNING-GLORY 

Tortoise-beetle. — The  same  as  on  the  sweet  potato. 

Leaf-cutter. — A yellowish  green  caterpillar  with  black 
spots,  about  three  inches  long.  Spray  with  arsenate  of  lead  (I). 

PELARGONIUM,  GERANIUM 

Dropsy. — Dead  spots  on  the  leaves  which,  before  they  die, 
will  have  wet-looking  places  on  the  under  side  of  the  leaf, 
which  appear  translucent  when  held  between  the  observer 
and  the  light.  This  is  caused  by  too  much  water  in  the  soil. 

ROSE 

Aphis. — Same  as  carnation  aphis. 

Leaf-hopper. — A small  greenish  bug,  which  jumps  around 
lively  and  sucks  the  foliage.  Spray  with  kerosene  emulsion  (V). 

Rose-chafer. — The  brown  beetle  found  eating  the  rose 
flowers  and  buds.  Hand-picking  is  the  best,  but  spraying 
with  arsenate  of  lead  (I),  one-half  pound  to  five  gallons  of 
water,  will  help  to  hold  them  in  check.  They  appear  in  June 
and  are  worst  on  sandy  soils. 

Nematodes. — See  under  House-plants. 

Rose-scale. — See  description  under  Raspberry. 

Slugs. — A green  slug,  or  worm,  which  appears  late  in  May, 


52 


THE  SUBURBAN  GARDEN  GUIDE 


eating  holes  in  the  leaves.  Spray  with  arsenate  of  lead  (I),  or 
a simpler  plan,  where  there  is  water  under  pressure,  is  to 
syringe  the  bushes  with  water,  knocking  them  off. 

Black-spot. — This  is  particularly  bad  on  roses  grown  indoors. 
There  are  black  spots  a quarter  of  an  inch  or  more  in  diameter, 
which  cause  the  leaves  to  sicken,  turning  yellow  and  later 
dropping  off.  Spray  with  ammoniacal  copper  carbonate  (XIV) 
once  a week. 

Mildew. — Powdery  growth  on  the  leaves,  the  edges  also 
curl  up  and  the  leaves  become  crinkly.  It  is  caused  by  poor 
cultural  conditions — house  too  cool,  or  draughts  strike  the 
plant.  Dust  flowers  of  sulphur  (VIIIc)  over  the  leaves,  or 
moisten  with  water  (VIHb)  and  put  it  on  the  heating-pipes. 

SNAPDRAGON 

Anthracnose. — Brown  spots  on  the  leaves.  It  sometimes 
kills  the  plants.  Spray  with  Bordeaux  mixture  (XVIII)  when 
the  spots  are  first  noticed,  and  give  one  or  two  subsequent 
sprayings  a week  or  ten  days  apart. 

SWEET-PEA 

Aphis. — See  under  Pea. 

TOMATO 

Point-rot. — This  is  more  troublesome  on  tomatoes  grow- 
ing in  greenhouses.  A black  rot  occurs  at  the  point  where  the 
flower  was  attached.  This  is  caused  by  dryness.  It  will  be 
particularly  bad  on  benches  where  the  pipes  are  near  the 
bottom  of  the  benches  and  the  soil  thin. 

VIOLET 

Aphis. — On  the  violet  they  are  brown,  and  infest  the  crown 
of  the  plant  as  well  as  the  stems  and  under  side  of  the  leaves. 
Spray  with  tobacco  (IXb)  or  fumigate  with  tobacco  (IXc), 
or  spray  with  whale-oil  soap  (Vic). 

Cutworm. — These  cut  off  and  eat  the  leaves.  Poisoned 
bran  mash  (III)  is  effective.  Do  not  use  fresh  soil  in  the  benches 
or  frames  for  growing  violets.  If  it  must  be  used,  treat  it  as 
follows:  Add  tankage  to  the  soil  at  the  rate  of  forty  pounds 
to  the  cubic  yard,  and  pile  it  up  and  let  it  stand.  It  will  gen- 
erate heat  sufficient  to  kill  all  the  grubs.  Let  it  stand  until 
cool  before  using 


HOW  AND  WHEN  TO  SPRAY-TREES 


53 


Saw-fly. — A dull,  olive  grub  that  eats  the  surface  of  the 
leaves.  Spray  with  arsenate  of  lead  (I)  or  fumigate  with 
tobacco  (IXc). 

Leaf-tyer. — A small  green  worm,  eating  the  leaf,  that  can 
be  held  in  check  in  the  same  way  as  the  slug  of  the  saw-fly. 

Leaf-spot,  Leaf-blight. — Round  white  aphis  with  black 
outer  wings,  the  whole  one-eighth  of  an  inch  in  diameter. 
First  pick  off  all  infested  leaves.  Spray  with  Bordeaux  mix- 
ture (XVIII)  or,  if  the  plants  are  in  flower,  with  ammoniacal 
copper  carbonate  (XIV). 

ALL  INSECTS  DESTROYING  TREES  AND 
SHRUBS 

The  Brown-tailed  Moth  is  a serious  pest  in  the  New 
England  states.  This  pest  winters  over  in  the  caterpillar 
stage  in  nests  made  of  leaves.  Cut  off  all  these  and  burn  them. 
The  full-grown  caterpillar  is  about  two  inches  long,  reddish 
brown  in  color,  with  a broken  white  stripe  on  each  side,  and 
two  red  dots  on  the  back  near  the  rear.  These  can  be  killed 
by  spraying  the  trees  with  arsenate  of  lead  (I). 

The  Bag-worm. — You  can  see  this  in  winter;  numerous 
dark  gray  conical  bags  hanging  to  twigs  of  the  arbor  vitae, 
soft  maple,  locust  or  other  trees.  The  damage  this  insect  does, 
besides  feeding  on  the  leaves,  is  to  girdle  the  twigs.  The  fas- 
tening around  the  twig  is  so  tough  it  does  not  rot  easily.  Col- 
lect the  cocoons  during  the  winter,  as  this  is  the  best  method 
of  attacking  this  pest 

The  Gypsy  Moth. — Eats  the  foliage  of  any  plant  it  comes 
to.  The  oval  egg  masses  can  be  seen  in  winter  at  the  base  of 
trees  and  in  other  places,  one  and  one-half  inches  long  and  half 
as  wide.  Destroy  them.  To  protect  trees  from  the  caterpillars, 
wrap  the  trunk  with  burlap  or  tanglefoot,  to  stop  their  climb- 
ing the  trees.  Spray  with  arsenate  of  lead  (I)  in  late  spring 
and  early  summer. 

The  San  Jose  Scale. — See  description  under  apple.  In 
addition  to  the  fruit  trees,  this  scale  infests  most  seriously  the 
Juneberry,  hawthorn,  privet,  poplar,  the  various  species  of 
prunus,  rose,  willow,  ash,  lilac,  osage  orange,  and  elm.  Spray 
the  trees,  when  dormant,  with  lime-sulphur  wash  (Xa). 


54 


THE  SUBURBAN  GARDEN  GUIDE 


White  Tussock-moth. — This  is  most  commonly  found  on 
lindens,  horse-chestnuts,  elms,  and  maples,  but  has  damaged 
many  kinds  of  trees.  The  young  caterpillars  appear  in  May 
and  eat  the  leaves.  This  insect  does  not  do  sufficient  damage 
yet  to  pay  to  spray  for  it,  but  effective  work  can  be  done 
against  it  by  collecting  during  the  winter  the  frothy  egg  masses 
found  on  the  bark  or  on  dead  leaves,  and  burning  them.  The 
caterpillar  is  about  an  inch  and  a half  long,  and  has  four  white 
tussocks  on  his  back  and  two  long,  hairy  horns  on  the  forward 
end,  and  one  on  the  rear  end,  of  his  body. 

ELM 

The  Elm-leae  Beetle  is  doing  much  damage  to  elms  in 
the  northeastern  states.  In  the  spring,  the  beetles  come  out  of 
their  winter  quarters  and  eat  holes  in  the  leaves.  Spray  with 
arsenate  of  lead  (I).  Repeat  this  about  June  i,  getting  it  on 
the  under  side  of  the  leaves,  so  that  the  larvae  or  grub  will 
get  it.  Later  in  the  season,  when  the  larvae  are  going  to  pupate, 
i.  e.,  go  into  cocoons,  they  drop  from  the  tree  to  the  ground, 
and  some  may  be  found  on  the  trunk.  The  pupae  are  yellow. 
Spray  the  trunks  of  the  trees  and  the  ground  under  the  trees 
at  this  time  with  kerosene  emulsion.  During  the  winter  and 
early  spring,  search  attics,  belfries,  cupolas,  for  dormant 
beetles,  collecting  and  burning  them. 

LOCUST 

Locust-leaf  Miner. — This  insect  eats  the  skin  of  the  leaf 
so  badly  that  in  August  the  trees  are  as  sear  and  brown  as  if 
scorched  by  fire.  Spray  with  arsenate  of  lead  (I)  in  the  spring, 
just  as  soon  as  the  leaves  are  out,  that  the  adult  beetle  may 
be  killed  before  the  egg-laying  season. 

LINDEN 

Putnam  Scale. — See  under  Maple. 

MAPLE 

Cottony  Maple  Scale. — It  is  easily  recognized  by  the 
presence  of  the  white  cottony  masses  which  insects  exude. 
These  cottony  masses  protect  the  eggs.  In  winter,  spray  with 
kerosene  emulsion  (V),  diluting  the  stock  with  only  six  to  ten 
parts  of  water. 


HOW  AND  WHEN  TO  SPRAY— TREES 


55 


Putnam  Scale. — Very  similar  to  San  Jose  scale.  Usually 
only  trees  in  cities  are  infested.  Spray,  when  the  trees  are 
dormant,  with  lime-sulphur  wash  (Xa). 

MAPLE.  ELM 

Leopard-moth. — The  larvae  of  this  insect  are  particularly 
destructive  about  cities.  They  bore  into  the  twigs  and  go  on 
down  into  the  larger  branches.  They  ultimately  damage  the 
limbs  so  badly  as  to  kill  the  branches,  or  weaken  them  so  that 
they  are  broken  off  by  high  winds.  Hunt  the  burrows  and 
put  carbon  bisulphide  in  them,  stopping  up  the  end  with  putty. 
Small  branches  should  be  pruned  off. 

ROSE  RUGOSA 

The  Rose-scale. — See  description  under  Raspberry.  Al- 
though it  infests  all  roses,  this  one  is  more  subject  to  it  than 
the  others.  Spray  with  kerosene  emulsion  (V)  late  in  May, 
or  with  lime-sulphur  wash  (Xa),  when  the  bushes  are  dormant. 


SPRAYING  FORMULAS 


The  following  formulas  will  help  to  keep  your  plants  free 
from  insects  and  plant  diseases. 

INSECTICIDES 

The  insects  infesting  cultivated  plants  are  divided  into  two 
general  classes, — chewing  insects  and  sucking  insects, — and 
the  remedies  and  exterminators  are  made  to  suit  the  kind  of 
insect  to  be  attacked. 

FOR  CHEWING  INSECTS 

I.  Arsenic  in  the  form  of  Paris  green  or  arsenate  of  lead. 
The  latter,  arsenate  of  lead,  is  so  much  preferable  to  Paris 
green  that  formulas  for  it  only  are  given.  Paris  green,  if  used 
in  too  large  a quantity,  will  burn  the  plants;  arsenate  of  lead 
will  not,  even  though  used  in  large  quantities,  and  it  remains 
in  suspension  much  longer  than  Paris  green.  It  is  also  sold 
under  such  trade  names  as  Disparene.  Arsenate  of  lead  is 
white  and  comes  in  paste  form.  It  is  usually  used  at  the  rate 
of  six  ounces  to  five  gallons  of  water,  but  can  be  used  at  the 
rate  of  one  pound  to  five  gallons. 

II.  Resin  Soap,  used  to  make  arsenical  poisons  stick  to 
smooth  surfaces,  like  cabbage.  Five  pounds  pulverized  resin, 
one  pound  concentrated  lye,  one  pint  fish  or  any  animal  oil,  five 
gallons  water. 

To  make,  put  the  resin  and  oil  and  a gallon  of  water  in  an 
iron  kettle  and  heat;  when  the  resin  has  dissolved,  add  the 
lye,  stirring  the  solution;  add  the  balance  of  the  water  and  boil 
the  whole  for  two  hours,  or  until  the  solution,  when  put  in 
cold  water,  will  make  a clear,  amber-colored  liquid.  The  solu- 
tion, when  boiling,  should  be  kept  up  to  five  gallons  by  adding 
water  to  make  up  for  loss  by  evaporation.  To  use,  dilute  one 
pint  of  the  soap  with  sixteen  pints  of  water,  and  add  three 
pints  of  milk  of  lime  or  whitewash,  and  one-fourth  pound  of 
Paris  green,  or  it  can  be  diluted  with  Bordeaux  mixture. 

III.  Poisoned  Bran  Mash.  One  ounce  white  arsenic,  one  to 
two  ounces  brown  sugar,  six  to  ten  ounces  bran. 

56 


SPRAYING  FORMULAS— INSECTICIDES 


57 


Mix  these  together,  and  add  enough  water  to  make  a wet 
but  not  sloppy  mash.  This  is  used  as  a poison  bait. 

IV.  Hellebore,  an  internal  poison  for  insects,  but  not  to 
man.  It  is  used  in  place  of  Paris  green  or  arsenate  of  lead 
where  there  is  danger  of  the  poison  remaining  on  the  parts  of 
plants  to  be  eaten.  Dust  dry  on  the  leaves,  especially  the  under 
side,  when  the  dew  is  on,  or  sprinkle  the  leaves  to  insure  its 
sticking.  As  a solution  it  can  be  sprayed  on,  using  one  ounce 
to  one  to  three  gallons  of  water. 

FOR  SUCKING  INSECTS 

V.  Kerosene  Emulsion.  One-half  pound  hard  soap,  two  gal- 
lons kerosene,  one  gallon  water. 

Shave  up  the  soap  and  dissolve  it  in  the  water,  which  should 
boil.  Remove  from  the  stove  and,  while  still  boiling,  add  the 
kerosene  and  thoroughly  churn  it.  The  best  way  to  do  this  is 
by  means  of  a bucket  spray  pump.  Churn  until  it  becomes  a 
soft,  butter-like  mass.  This  is  a stock  solution;  to  use,  dilute 
with  ten  to  twelve  parts  of  water.  For  scale  insects  in  winter, 
stock  solution  can  be  used  without  dilution. 

VI.  Whale-oil  Soap  ( a ) As  a winter  spray  against  scale 
insects,  use  two  pounds  to  one  gallon  of  water.  Trunk  and 
branches  can  be  painted  by  hand  in  summer,  but  this  strength 
will  injure  the  leaves.  Only  one  application  of  this  strength 
should  be  used  in  a season. 

(b)  One  pound  to  one  gallon  of  water. 

(*;)  One  pound  to  eight  to  ten  gallons  of  water. 

VII.  Pyrethrum,  or  Insect  Powder. — Burn  in  the  house 
to  kill  fleas,  flies,  mosquitoes  and  cockroaches.  As  it  deterio- 
rates rapidly,  it  must  be  kept  in  a tight  can.  To  spray,  use 
one- fifth  of  an  ounce  (ioo  grains)  in  two  gallons  of  hot  water. 

VIII.  Sulphur.  ( a ) One  ounce  to  one  gallon  of  water. 

( b ) Place  the  flowers  of  sulphur  on  steam  or  hot-water  pipe. 

(i c ) Dust  on  leaves. 

(d)  Flowers  of  sulphur,  one  part;  lime  twenty  to  forty  parts. 

IX.  Tobacco  ( a ) Dust.  Sprinkle  over  cucurbits  to  drive 
away  the  striped  beetle.  Work  it  in  the  ground  about  plants 
infested  with  root-lice.  In  case  of  a tree,  use  one  and  one- 
half  to  two  pounds. 


58 


THE  SUBURBAN  GARDEN  GUIDE 


(b)  Stems.  Make  a decoction,  using  one  pound  to  two  gal- 
lons of  hot  water.  Let  it  stand  for  several  hours  in  a tight 
vessel.  It  can  be  greatly  improved  by  adding  one  ounce  of 
pyrethrum.  Dilute  to  use  with  three  to  five  parts  of  water. 

( c ) Fumigate  with  stems  or  with  one  of  the  tobacco  extracts 
now  on  the  market.  If  stems  are  used,  care  must  be  taken 
not  to  burn  the  foliage  by  too  strong  a smoke. 

X.  Lime-sulphur  Wash. — This  is  being  recommended  and 
used  by  horticulturists  in  place  of  Bordeaux  mixture  for  the 
treatment  of  plant  diseases,  such  as  apple  scab,  as  well  as  for 
the  San  Jose  scale,  for  which  it  was  first  used.  Commercial 
lime-sulphur  wash  ready  to  use,  except  to  dilute  with  water, 
according  to  the  directions,  can  be  bought,  and  is  much  han- 
dier to  use  than  home-boiled.  A home-boiled  concentrated 
solution  can  be  made  as  follows:  One  pound  lime,  two  and 
one-fourth  pounds  sulphur,  one  gallon  water. 

Use  an  iron  kettle,  slake  the  lime  in  a little  water,  and  add 
the  sulphur  when  the  lime  begins  to  slake.  Sift  the  sulphur  in, 
and  be  sure  there  are  no  lumps.  Boil  hard  for  over  an  hour, 
or  until  the  sulphur  is  dissolved,  but  it  must  boil  for  forty- 
five  minutes,  at  least.  Add  water  as  necessary,  and,  when 
about  finished,  dilute  with  water,  preferably  hot  water,  to 
make  one  gallon.  This  should  have  a specific  gravity  of  1.30. 

(a)  For  winter,  spray  for  San  Jose  scale.  Dilute  with  nine 
parts  of  water  (or  to  1.03  specific  gravity). 

( b ) For  spring,  spray  for  apple,  pear  and  quince,  to  prevent 
scab.  Dilute  with  twenty  to  thirty  parts  of  water  (or,  to  1.01 
to  1. 01 5 specific  gravity). 

(l c ) For  summer,  spray  for  apple,  pear  and  quince.  Dilute 
one  part  of  the  stock  solution  with  thirty  to  forty  parts  of 
water. 

(l d ) For  peaches,  plums  and  cherries,  for  the  brown  rot, 
dilute  with  fifty  to  sixty  parts  of  water  (or  1.006  specific  grav- 
ity). 

XII.  Carbolic  Soap. — Two  pounds  of  soft  soap;  dilute 
this  with  rain-water  to  consistency  of  paint,  and  add  one 
ounce  of  crude  carbolic  acid. 


SPRAYING  FORMULAS— FUNGICIDES 


59 


FUNGICIDES 

XIII.  Copper  Sulphate. — For  use  on  dormant  trees,  dis- 
solve three  ounces  in  five  gallons  of  water. 

^ jXIV.  Ammoniacal  Copper  Carbonate. — Dissolve  five 
ounces  of  copper  carbonate  in  three  pints  of  ammonia  (26° 
Beaume);  dilute  for  use  with  forty-five  gallons  of  water.  The 
stock  solution  will  keep  indefinitely  if  kept  in  a tightly  corked 
bottle.  This  will  not  stain  the  plants,  as  will  Bordeaux  mix- 
ture. 

XV.  Potassium!  Sulphide,  or  Liver  of  Sulphur. — Dis- 
solve one-half  ounce  in  one  gallon  of  water.  This  loses  strength 
with  age;  mix  it  fresh. 

XVI.  Formalin. — For  potato  scab,  one  pint  to  fifteen  gal- 
lons of  water. 

XVII.  Corrosive  Sublimate. — Potato  scab,  two  ounces 
to  two  gallons  of  water. 

XVIII.  Bordeaux  Mixture. — In  five  gallons  of  water, 
dissolve  five  ounces  of  copper  sulphate  by  hanging  in  a bag  in 
the  top  of  the  tub,  and  five  and  one-half  ounces  of  good  stone 
lime,  and  stir  thoroughly.  Strain  into  sprayer  and  add,  when 
an  insecticide  is  wanted,  as  well,  three  to  six  ounces  of  arsen- 
ate of  lead. 

XIX.  Iron-sulphate. — For  use  on  dormant  plants  only. 
Dissolve  in  three  quarts  of  hot  water  as  much  iron-sulphate 
as  the  water  will  hold,  then  add  one  ounce  sulphuric  acid. 


FERTILIZING  THE  SMALL  GARDEN 


TTO  maintain  high  fertility  in  the  vegetable  garden  is  a very 
serious  problem  for  some  amateur  gardeners,  for  one  of 
two  reasons:  either  good  stable  manure  is  not  available,  or, — 
and  a foolish  reason, — they  object  to  using  it.  Stable  manure  is 
the  best  fertilizer  the  amateur  can  use,  but  in  some  localities  it 
really  is  hard  to  get,  for  fresh  manure,  especially  fresh  horse 
manure,  does  not  give,  under  ordinary  circumstances,  nearly  such 
good  results  as  does  well-decayed  manure.  Stable  manure  con- 
tains a great  deal  of  humus — vegetable  matter — in  addition  to 
its  fertilizing  value.  This  vegetable  matter  in  the  soil  is  abso- 
lutely necessary,  for  without  it  the  soil  is  unable  to  perform  its 
proper  functions. 

The  soil  is  really  a great  big  laboratory  that  is  constantly 
changing  the  raw  material  into  forms  that  are  available  for  use 
by  the  plants.  Practically  all  soils  contain  sufficient  phosphoric 
acid  and  potash  to  supply  the  ordinary  demand  upon  it  for 
plant  food.  But  unless  there  is  a large  amount  of  humus  in  the 
soil,  the  bacteria  which  help  to  convert  it  into  an  available  form 
cannot  exist. 

If  a good  stable  manure  is  used,  it  will  rarely  be  necessary  to 
resort  to  any  commercial  fertilizers  to  enrich  the  soil.  For  those 
who  are  unable  to  secure  stable  manure,  humus  must  be  supplied 
in  another  form.  It  can  easily  be  done  by  growing  such  plants 
as  clover  or  rye,  and  plowing  them  under  in  the  spring.  The 
way  to  do  this  is  to  sow  these  crops  in  the  summer  time  at  the 
time  when  cultivation  is  about  over  in  the  garden.  For  instance, 
in  the  cornfield  it  should  be  sown  at  the  time  of  last  cultivation, 
which  is  usually  early  in  July.  It  should  be  sown  among  pota- 
toes just  before  the  plants  actually  cover  the  ground  between 
the  rows,  so  that  the  last  cultivation  will  cover  the  seed.  With 
other  crops  it  can  be  sown  as  soon  as  the  ground  is  clear.  Where 
the  sowing  can  be  made  in  July,  use  crimson  clover  and  hairy 
vetch  or  mammoth  clover,  using  one-half  of  crimson  clover  and 
the  other  half  composed  of  one  or  the  other  of  the  plants  just 
mentioned.  Where  the  sowing  must  be  delayed  until  late  in  the 
season,  put  in  rye.  The  clovers  and  vetches  are  better  than  the 
rye  because  they  have  the  power  of  fixing  the  free  atmospheric 

(60) 


FERTILIZING  THE  SMALL  GARDEN 


61 


nitrogen,  making  it  available  for  their  own  use,  and,  when  turned 
under,  for  the  use  of  other  plants.  In  addition  to  this  green 
manure  which  is  turned  under  in  the  spring  at  plowing- time, 
some  commercial  fertilizer  must  be  used.  The  amount  to  use 
will  vary  according  to  the  plants  grown,  and  to  the  kind  of  soil 
in  which  the  plants  are  grown.  The  best  way  to  determine  the 
amount  is  by  experimenting  with  the  piece  of  ground  on  which 
the  garden  is  planted.  This,  however,  is  something  which  most 
amateurs  have  neither  the  time  nor  the  space  to  determine. 
For  the  ordinary  vegetable  garden,  150  to  300  pounds  of  nitrate 
of  soda,  200  to  400  pounds  of  muriate  of  potash,  and  the  same 
quantity  of  acid  phosphate  will  give  good  results.  This  will 
mean  that  every  square  yard  should  receive  from  one-half  to 
one  ounce  of  nitrate  of  soda,  and  two-thirds  to  one  and  two- 
thirds  ounces  of  muriate  of  potash  and  of  acid  phosphate. 
These  three  fertilizers  are  the  raw  material,  and  can  be  purchased 
from  any  seed  store,  and,  in  many  cases,  from  other  agents.  A 
ready-mixed  commercial  fertilizer  can  also  be  bought  from  the 
same  sources.  If  this  is  done,  one  which  is  guaranteed  to  con- 
tain four  per  cent  of  nitrogen,  eight  per  cent  of  phosphoric  acid 
and  ten  per  cent  of  potash,  that  is  available  for  plant  use,  will 
give  good  results. 

The  amount  to  use  of  the  above  fertilizer  will  vary  according 
to  the  crop.  For  instance,  asparagus  would  need  1,000  to  1,500 
pounds  per  acre;  beans  and  peas,  500  to  600  pounds;  beets  and 
turnips,  1,000  to  1,500  pounds,  but  in  the  small  garden  it  will  not 
pay  for  one  to  attempt  to  give  these  exact  amounts  to  the  various 
crops.  A general  application  of  1,000  pounds  to  the  acre,  or 
about  three  to  four  ounces  to  the  square  yard,  will  give  suffi- 
cient fertilizer  for  most  plants.  It  should  be  given  at  the  time 
of  preparing  the  ground  for  the  crop.  In  addition  to  this,  the 
various  crops  should  have,  from  time  to  time,  during  the  season, 
a supplementary  application  of  one  or  more  of  the  raw  materials. 
For  instance,  beans  and  peas  should  receive  220  to  230  pounds 
of  phosphoric  acid  to  the  acre,  or  a little  less  than  an  ounce  to  the 
square  yard,  and  65  to  75  pounds  of  potash  per  acre,  or  about  a 
quarter  of  an  ounce  to  the  square  yard;  beets  and  turnips,  50  to 
100  pounds  of  nitrate  of  soda  to  an  acre,  or  about  a third  of  an 
ounce  to  the  square  yard,  and  this  can  be  repeated  two  or  three 
times  while  the  plants  are  still  young;  cabbage,  cauliflower,  and 
Brussels  sprouts  should  be  given  a supplemental  top-dressing 


62 


THE  SUBURBAN  GARDEN  GUIDE 


of  ioo  pounds  of  nitrate  of  soda  and  200  pounds  of  super-phos- 
phate per  acre,  or  one-third  of  an  ounce  of  nitrate  of  soda  and 
two-thirds  of  an  ounce  of  super-phosphate  to  the  square  yard. 
Cucumbers,  watermelons,  muskmeions,  pumpkins  and  squashes 
should  be  given  further  dressings,  in  addition,  of  course,  to  the 
commercial  fertilizer  given  at  the  time  of  planting,  of  200  to 
300  pounds  per  acre  of  cottonseed  meal,  100  to  200  pounds  of 
dried  blood,  or  300  to  400  pounds  of  tankage,  or,  an  ounce  of 
cottonseed  meal,  two-thirds  of  an  ounce  of  dried  blood,  and 
one  and  one-third  ounces  of  tankage  to  the  square  yard. 

To  reinforce  the  original  fertilization  when  growing  celery, 
frequent  applications  of  nitrate  of  soda  at  the  rate  of  100 
pounds  to  the  acre,  or  one-third  of  an  ounce  to  the  square 
yard,  will  help  to  induce  a strong  leaf  growth.  This  can  be 
given  several  times  during  the  season.  The  same  quantities 
would  apply  very  well,  also,  to  eggplant,  spinach,  lettuce,  and 
rhubarb.  The  best  time  to  use  these  commercial  fertilizers  is 
in  the  spring  when  the  ground  is  being  prepared.  They  are  usu- 
ally harrowed  into  the  soil,  having  been  spread  after  the  ground 
was  plowed,  although  some  people  seem  to  prefer  to  put  their 
commercial  fertilizers  in  the  hill  under  such  crops  as  corn  and 
potatoes. 

In  recommending  the  use  of  commercial  fertilizers  in  the  vege- 
table garden,  I do  so  only  because  some  people  cannot  get  manure, 
but  barnyard  manure  will  give  the  best  results.  Commercial 
fertilizers,  without  humus  in  the  soil,  act  only  as  a stimulant 
and  they  do  not  give  the  results, — that  is,  one  does  not  get  one’s 
money’s  worth  from  them  unless  there  is  a good  supply  of  humus. 

The  fertilizing  of  the  garden  composes  one-half  of  what  must 
be  done  to  raise  the  crop;  the  other  half  is  tillage.  The  ground 
must  be  thoroughly  worked  before  planting, — that  is,  it  should  be 
worked  deep  and  carefully  pulverized,  and  after  the  crops  are 
growing,  the  surface  of  the  soil  should  be  cultivated  once  a week. 
These  cultivations  should  not  be  deep;  an  inch  or  an  inch  and 
one-half  is  sufficient,  the  object  being  to  maintain  a dust  mulch 
upon  the  surface  to  prevent  the  evaporation  of  soil  moisture. 
This  can  also  be  avoided  by  mulching  the  soil  with  such  mate- 
rial as  salt  hay  or  straw.  But  the  mulch  can  be  maintained  by 
cultivation  much  more  easily  and  cheaply,  in  most  instances, 
than  by  the  use  of  mulches.  With  the  proper  tools  it  will  be  an 
easy  matter  to  maintain  this  dust  mulch. 


PLANTING  TABLE  FOR  BULBS 


Variety 

Tender 

or 

Hardy 

Color 

Depth  to 
Plant 
(inches) 

Distance 

Apart 

(inches) 

Time  to 
Force 
(weeks) 

Belladonna  Lily 

T. 

Red  to  white 

3 

50 

6 

Poppy  Anemone 

H. 

Red,  blue, 

2 

3 

8-10 

Spirea 

H. 

White,  pink 

2 

18 

12-14 

Mariposa  Tulip 

H. 

Yellow 

8 

8 

10 

Glory-of -the -Snow 

H. 

Blue 

2 

2 

2 

Meadow  Saffron1 

H 

2—T. 

6 

white 

Lily-of-the-Valley 

H. 

White 

3 

2 

21 

Powell’s  Crinum 

H. 

Pink 

8 

12 

Spring  Crocus 

H. 

Yellow,  pur- 

2-3 

3-4 

2 

pie,  white 

Fall  Crocus 

H 

2-2 

3-4 

Bleeding-Heart 

H. 

Red 

2 

36 

12 

Winter  Aconite  

H 

■2 

6 

Eremurus 

H. 

Rosy 

O 

2 

48 

Dog’s-tooth  Violet 

H. 

Rosy  purple, 

3 

3 

lilac 

Freesia 

T. 

White 

1 

2 

16 

Crown  Imperial 

H. 

Red,  orange, 

3-6 

6-8 

Yellow 

Snake ’s-Head 

H. 

Purple  and 

2-3 

4 

green 

Snowdrop 

H. 

White 

2 

3 

3 

Early-flowering  Gladiolus 

T. 

Red,  white 

2 

6 

12 

Christmas  Rose 

H. 

White 

4 

12 

2-3 

Amaryllis 

T. 

Red 

2 

6 

8 

Summer  Hyacinth 

H. 

White 

A 

6 

Dutch  Hyacinth 

H. 

All  colors 

A 

3-5 

5-6 

3"4 

Italian  Hyacinth 

T. 

White 

I 

3 

4 

Roman  Hyacinth 

H. 

All  colors 

4 

6 

4 

Hardy  Gloxinia 

H. 

Purplish  rose 

4 

18 

German  Iris 

H. 

All  colors 

'l 

18 

English  Iris 

H. 

Blue,  white 

O 

3 

5 

6 

Spanish  Iris 

H. 

Blue,  yellow 

3 

4 

8 

African  Corn  Lily 

H. 

All  colors 

3 

2 

8 

Red-Hot  Poker 

H. 

Red 

4 

24 

63 


64 


THE  SUBURBAN  GARDEN  GUIDE 


PLANTING  TABLE  FOR  BULBS,  continued 


Variety 

Tender 

or 

Hardy 

Color 

Depth  to 
Plant 
(inches) 

Distance 

Apart 

(inches) 

Time  to 
Force 
(weeks) 

Leopard  Lily 

T. 

Yellow,  tip- 

I 

3 

8 

ped  green 

Snowflake 

H 

White 

A 

A 

Gold-banded  Lily 

H 

White 

T 

6 

i 

12 

Canadian  Lily 

H. 

Yellow, 

6 

12 

orange,  red 

Ascension  Lily 

H. 

White 

6 

12 

16 

Thunberg’s  Lily 

H. 

Yellow, 

7 

12 

orange,  red 

Easter  Lily 

T. 

White 

i 

3 

12-14 

Spotted  Lily 

H. 

Pink,  red 

8 

12 



white 

Turk’s-cap  Lily 

H. 

Orange,  red 

6 

12 

Tiger  Lily  

H. 

Red,  spotted 

8 

12 

Grape  Hyacinth 

H. 

Blue,  white 

i-3 

2-3 

4 

Narcissus  bulbocodium  . . 

H. 

Yellow 

5 

3 

4 

Narcissus  incomparabilis 

H. 

Yellow,  white 

4 

6 

3-4 

Jonquils  

H. 

Yellow 

5 

3 

3 

Narcissus  poeticus  

H. 

White 

6 

4 

3-4 

Narcissus  Pseudo  - Nar- 

cissus   

H. 

Yellow,  white 

6 

5 

3-4 

Paper-White  Narcissus 

T. 

White,  yellow 

i 

3 

3-4 

Arabian  Star  of  Bethle- 

hem   

T. 

White 

i 

3 

16 

Bermuda  Buttercup 

T. 

Yellow 

i 

3 

8 

Persian  Ranunculus  — 

T. 

Yellow,  red 

i 

3 

8 

Calla 

T. 

White 

i 

12 

% 

Squills 

H. 

Blue 

3 

4 

2 

Wood  Hyacinth 

H. 

Blue,  white, 

3 

4 

2 

Windflower  

T. 

pink 

Red,  yellow 

i 

3 

8 

Autumn  T^affodil 

H. 

Yellow 

— 6 

6 

Wake-robin  

H. 

White 

4 

6 

Montbretia 

H. 

Orange 

4 

6 

crimson 

Cottage  Tulip 

H. 

All  but  blue 

3 

5 

Early  Tulip 

H. 

All  but  blue 

3 

5 

3-4 

Scarborough  Lily 

T. 

Blood-red 

i 

6 

